Restoring History – Protecting Our Future

“What use is a fine house if you haven’t got a tolerable planet to put it on?” – Thoreau

by Matt Grocoff, founder Greenovation.TV, contributor to The Environment Report on Public Radio, and the greenovation guru for Old House Web

The full article is available on OLD HOUSE WEB

When my wife Kelly and I bought our 110 year old Folk-Victorian home in Ann Arbor’s Old West Side Historic District, it was a dream come true: drafty old windows, lead paint, zero insulation, a half-century old furnace, asbestos siding, a gas powered mower in the shed and even a few pieces of coal scattered around the back yard. What more could a couple ask for?

From the start we knew that homes use an astonishing 22% of energy consumed in the U.S. In fact, your home uses far more energy than your car. Home energy costs have skyrocketed to an average of $2200 per year. Old homes use even more than their fair share of the energy pie. . . .

But using resources to build big new “green” homes to save resources just seems ironic. There are 130 million existing homes in the U.S.; half were built before 1972.

So, retrofitting America’s old homes is not just about preserving history, it is indeed about protecting our future.

READ MATT’S FULL ARTICLE AT OLD HOUSE WEB

And . . . here’s helpful resources you must explore before starting your Mission Zero:

One Block Off the Grid http://1bog.org/

Joolze.com http://www.joolze.com/

Transcript

Matt: [at front of old Victorian house] Hi, I’m Matt Grocoff, the green renovation expert for Old House Web and host of greenovation.tv and this is my house.  So when my wife Kelly and I first bought this 110 year old folk Victorian house, it was a dream come true: it had lead paint, asbestos siding, zero insulation and even an old gas powered lawn mower out in the shed.  What more can anybody ask for.

Matt: [in living room] So on move in day we brought two things with us:  a crowbar to rip up all the old carpet and a box of compact fluorescent light bulbs.  We replaced every light socket in this house with compact fluorescents and then we added motion sensors to every light switch in the house.  We leave a room, if we forget to turn it off, it turns it off for us.

Matt: [in bathroom] So at the start of our renovation project, this was the only bathroom in the house.  It was fantastic.  It had pink Formica tiles, an old flush toilet that flushed 5 gallons every time.  This is a Caroma Dual Flush Toilet which only uses .8 gallons every flush and unlike our old toilet never clogs.  But not only have we made it look great, but we’ve made it way more energy efficient.

This is a 1-minute a gallon showerhead.  This is going to use a gallon and a half a minute less than an ordinary showerhead.  This will literally save thousands of gallons over its lifetime.

Matt: [backyard drilling for geothermal] I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard people say “I thought you couldn’t put geothermal into a historic house.”  Well this house proves that wrong.  We were able to put three 150-foot bore holes vertically into the back yard on a very small piece of property.  Not only do we have a heating and cooling system that uses half the energy of our neighbors, we have a house that’s a whole lot more comfortable.

Matt: [in living room] We’re out to prove that old houses can be the Greenest houses. In fact, with all the renovations we’ve done so far, we’ve made this house ultra efficient and we’ve got a ways to go.  We’re going to take this house all the way to Net Zero.  Meaning it’s going to produce more energy than it uses.

Matt: [at the computer] So you eco geeks, get ready to get geeked out because this is our WattVision Google Power Meter.  And this will tell us how much energy we’re consuming at any given moment.  If everyone knew how much energy they were using, they would probably use a lot less.  [I'm coming to get you, I got you, I got you] Before we get the solar panels up on the roof, you can see we’ve got a lot of work to do.

Matt: [pointing to house exterior] We’ve got to paint the house, restore these old windows, then top it off with some really energy efficient storm windows.  My daughter Jane will probably still be alive when this house turns 200 years old.  So restoring America’s old homes is not just about preserving history, it’s about protecting our future.   So for Old House Web, this is Matt Grocoff reminding you that, “The Green Revolution Begins at Home”

Share on Facebook

by Lester Graham (transcript from radio story on The Environment Report)

When you’re planning a home improvement project, you can be overwhelmed with decisions about the right materials, the right quality, and the right design. Trying to keep it eco- friendly on top of everything else just adds to the confusion. Lester Graham reports it can be as simple as finding a label:

Julia Weinert and her boyfriend like the idea of making their place nice, but even something as simple as painting causes concerns.

Look for Forest Stewardship Council for sustainably harvested wood

LG: “Well, you’re in luck. We’re at the local Home Depot and we just happen to have Greenovation.TV’s Matt Grocoff here. Matt, you’ve got some advice for her.”

MG: “And it’s really, really simple. When you’re trying to find a paint that’s healthy for you or another product, you shouldn’t have to be a chemist when you go to the store. There’s a really simple thing you can look for. Just look for the simple GREENGUARD label. GREENGUARD is an independent organization that lets you know with a simple label that that product is safe for you.”

So, none of the really strong paint smells that mean polluting chemicals are being released. GREENGUARD Environmental Institute sets indoor air standards for products and buildings. Julia and I sniffed a can of paint WITH the GREENGUARD label, and then one without.

LG: “I’ll let you sniff first.”

JW: Okay. Oh! Yeah! Oh my gosh! That is ridiculous. I mean, it smells so much stronger than this one. You can’t even smell that one compared to this one.”

A gallon of paint with the GREENGUARD label DOES cost a few dollars more, maybe as much as ten bucks.

Matt then herded us to another part of the store, the plumbing section, where Julia and I were confronted by all kinds of shiny chrome and brass faucets.

Greenguard establishes acceptable product standards for building materials, interior furnishings, cleaners, electronics and children’s products

JW: “There’s a whole wall, a whole aisle of faucets here and I just don’t know which ones to look for.”

LG: “So, Matt. You got any fancy labels here?”

MG: “Absolutely. Again, if you’re looking for that eco-friendly option, a way to save yourself some money and some water, it’s simple. Just look for the WaterSense label. The EPA does EnergyStar labels for appliances. The EPA also does WaterSense label for plumbing fixtures.”

WaterSense means the fixture – whether a faucet, shower head or toilet – will use less water but still works well.

As we wandered over to the lumber section of the store, Matt told us the last label he wanted to show us is the most ignored label – and it might just be the most important one.

MG: “FSC stands for the Forest Stewardship Council. And what that means is they’ve made a commitment that they’re not going to be tearing down forest and clear-cutting them in order for you to build some bookshelves in your home. This is one of the biggest causes of greenhouse gases is that we don’t have these forests capturing this carbon any more. Instead of having to have a PhD in forest management, you can just simply look for a piece of wood that has an FSC label on it.”

So, labels. Julia says, works for her.

JW: “It’s going to be great, taking my boyfriend around the store and showing him all these cool things I can get to make our home improvements a little more cheap and environmentally-friendly.”

LG: “Alright remind me, go over this again. What am I supposed to be looking for?”

MG: “It’s very simple. If you’re looking for paint, look for GREENGUARD. For plumbing, WaterSense. For lumber, FSC, Forest Stewardship Council certified.”

LG: “That’s Matt Grocoff, Greenovation.TV. Thanks again, Matt.

MG: “Lester, it’s always a pleasure. Thank you.”

For The Environemnt Report, I’m Lester Graham.

TRUST THESE LABELS:

Energy Star – means it’s energy efficient

WaterSense – means it’s water efficient

FSC Forest Stewardship Council – means you can trust that it didn’t come from a forest that was clear cut

Greenguard / Green Seal / for healthy indoor air quality (read the warning labels and compare)

Cradle to Cradle – means it uses environmentally safe and healthy materials; design for material reutilization, such as recycling or composting; the use of renewable energy and energy efficiency; efficient use of water, and maximum water quality associated with production; and instituting strategies for social responsibility.

SCS / Scientific Certification Systems

Consumer Reports on Eco-Labels: http://www.greenerchoices.org/eco-labels

Share on Facebook

Larry Laseter, president of Efficiency First Capitol Circle member Masco Home Services, joined Barack Obama in Savannah, Ga., on Tuesday as the President delivered a speech outlining details of the proposed HOME STAR efficiency retrofit program. Here is a video released by the White House that shows a brief behind-the-scenes conversation between Larry Laseter and President Obama:

“We’re in the business of doing this now, and just like the GOLD STAR program, we actually guarantee their first year of energy savings” Laseter told the President. “That’s the beauty of this, is we know these technologies are proven, and with this bill, it will jump-start thousands of jobs.”

via Efficiency First

Share on Facebook

Listen to Matt’s story on The Environment Report syndicated on NPR stations nationwide.

We know that a hardware store sells hardware.  So, what in the world does a ReStore sell? . . . . It sells any kind of RE you can imagine: REducing, REusing, REcycling .

Habitat ReStores are retail outlets which help you restore your house for a fraction of the cost while helping out a great cause.  In addition to

Bathroom made with reused material from reuse centers: mirror, clawfoot tub, sink, marble floor, picture frame, moldings, plumbing parts, cabinets, antique doors and paint Photo by Dave Lewinski

raising funds for Habitat for Humanity, ReStores help the environment by keeping quality, usable materials out of landfills and putting them back into good use.

Materials sold by Habitat ReStores are usually donated from building supply stores, contractors, demolition crews or from individuals who want to support Habitat for Humanity and keep stuff out of landfills.

When our very own Dr. Anna Marie renovated her home in Florida, she donated all of the old cabinets and appliances to her local Habitat ReStore (watch the video).  When Kelly and I needed reclaimed brick for our patio, salvaged lumber for our moldings, antique doors and a claw foot tub for the new bathroom, an outdoor fireplace, plumbing supplies, and even tools, we found it all (and more) at the ReStore and saved tons of money.

Reuse centers like the ReStore can be found in virtually every community in North America (see below to find a store near you).  They are a green remodeler’s dream come true and a perfect way to reach the goal of zero waste.

You can literally build an entire house from materials from a reuse center.

You’ll typically save 50% – 90% by skipping the big box stores and finding what you need at a ReStore.  So, use fewer natural resources, keep good stuff out of landfills, help a charity and save a little money . . . You can’t beat that.

Check out The Story of Stuff if you’re not already convinced about reuse.  You’ll definitely want to check out all the cool stuff over at the great new website www.AltUse.com if you’re looking for alternative uses for stuff you’ve got laying around the house but can’t bring yourself to drop by the ReStore.

by Matt Grocoff

Related Links:

Habitat ReStore Directory – United States

Habitat ReStore Directory – Canada

Share on Facebook

Click Here to listen to our shower head segment on The Environment Report syndicated on public radio stations nationwide

POP QUIZ:

Which of These Household Items Wastes the Most Energy? HINT: It’s the one without the plug

a. Refrigerator

b. Dishwasher

c. Plasma Screen with Surround Sound

d. Showerhead

Wasting Shower Water Wastes Energy

We Americans really love our showers.  We shower more often and longer than any other culture on the planet (see below for useless facts about shower habits). To enjoy our drenching showers, the average household annually spends $400-600 on water-heating, which doesn’t include the additional $300 spent on water bills.

By 2013, 36 states are expected to experience catastrophic water shortages.  But, if don’t care that 900 million people globally don’t have access to clean drinking water, maybe you’ll have some compassion for that $100 bill in your wallet.

It’s easy to forget that saving water in the shower is actually saving energy.  After your heat and a/c, your showerhead and sink faucets are the second biggest energy hogs in your home.

The good news is there is a really simple solution, even if you can’t afford to upgrade your water heater.  Replacing your current showerhead with a state-of-the-art low flow will save you between 40% – 70%. [Translation: $100 to $220 per year]

State-of-the-Art Low Flow Showerheads Really Satisfy

Let’s be honest.  The original low flow showerheads really sucked.  There’s a Seinfeld episode where Kramer is forced to go to the black-market to find a shower head made for circus elephants, just to avoid the lame performance of the poorly designed low-flow installed by his landlord.

But, the latest generation of high-efficiency shower heads are engineered to feel the same or better than your old-school energy hog of a showerhead.  They are also stylish.  In fact, high-end hotels like Paris Las Vegas and Ceasar’s Palace are using Bricor shower heads which use as little as 1.25 gallons per minute.  If it’s good enough for the suite as Ceasar’s, it’s good enough for your shower at home.

Check out the list below of what some of the manufacturers are offering in high-performance low-flow showerheads.

The Math of Showerheads

Click here to calculate how much you can save

Non-conserving showerheads (pre-1992) use 5 to 8 gpm, consuming up to 64 gallons of water for a single 8-minute shower. That’s more than an entire tank of hot water.   If your showerhead is old enough to vote . . . it’s time to replace it.

Here’s the math:

Average U.S. household shower use (based on assumption of three 10-minute showers per day)

SAVINGS PER HOUSEHOLD USING A 1.5 Gallon Per Minute showerhead

Useless Facts About Showering Habits

Peeing in the shower once a day can save 1,000 gallons of water per year

63% of Americans shower at least once a day

11% shower more than once a day

1% less than once per week

Men tend to shower more often than women

Favorite way to save water: Showering together

Sixty percent of Americans share a shower area with a spouse or significant other

25 percent share space with children, and 17 percent allow guests to use their shower

GTV recommends these high efficiency showerheads which use 1.75 gallons or less:

Bricor – 1/2 gallon to 1.5 gallons per minute options  A Greenovation favorite (but tough to find retail)

Available at Natural Abode

Price: $109

Hansgrohe – 1.6 gpm A Greenovation Best Buy

Available at NeedPlumbingSupplies.com

Price: $27.55

American Standard Flowise – 1.5 – 2.0 adjustable

Available at Home Depot

Price: $48.75

High Sierra Showerhead 1.5 gpm

Price: $24.95 – $29.95

Kohler – Forte’ 1.75 gpm

Available at Home Depot

Price: $63.71

Share on Facebook

Photos Courtesy of Dave Askins

If you want to save some energy, one of the first appliances to target is your washing machine.  You could buy yourself a high efficiency front loading washer and really save some energy and water.  Or, if you’re as committed as Dave Askins, you could build your own washer out of some reused parts and power the washer with your own calories.

Dave's Amish Handcranked Washer

This is not some proof of concept or some demonstration project.  This is actually how Dave does his laundry.  On his website, HomelessDave.com Dave has tracked every bicycle powered load of laundry he’s done since July 2007 (149 and counting).

To be fair, Dave doesn’t use his bicycle to power his entire wash, spin and rinse cycles.  He gets a little help from the Amish.  For the wash cycle he uses an Amish-style “James Handwasher.”  It washes clothes, not hands.

The bicycle helps Dave spin the clothes dry without using a labor-intensive, and inferior, hand-cranked wringer.

Once he realized his system worked, Dave added an electric power generator so that he could watch TV or DVDs while he does his laundry. 

For answers to all your questions about building your own pedal-powered washer visit Dave’s website . Dave Askins is the publisher of the Ann Arbor Chronicle.

How Dave Did It . . .

From www.HomelessDave.com

Additional documentation is organized based on these three elements. [Click here for details on electric power generation.  This is how Dave can watch "J.J. The Jet Plane" while he does his laundry]

Modifying the Washer (unbolting stuff)

(1) Remove the white metal shell from the washing machine.

(2) Remove the electric motor from the washing machine frame.

(3) Remove the pulley from the motor shaft.

(4) Detach the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump.

(5) Remove ‘brakes’.

(6) Save the belt from the pulley.

Discussion:

Tension Roller

(1) Notes (Remove the white metal shell from the washing machine): Just unscrew every nut/screw you can find. Most of them are pretty accessible. Be prepared to cut some electrical wires. What you want is the part you see pictured above. Or something like it.

(2) Notes (Remove the electric motor from the washing machine frame): This will require navigating a wrench into very tight spaces. It pays to have a very small socket driver. When you’re tearing out the motor, preserve the tension roller arm [cf. picture]. This is important for keeping the drive belt on the pulley under high rpms.

(3) Notes (Remove the pulley from the motor shaft) The motor I dealt with was attached to the shaft with a tension pin. I knocked it out with a nail set. There may be two pulleys on the same motor shaft, one driving the washer and one driving the pump. The one you want is the one driving the washer.

(4) Notes (Detach the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump) The automatic washer is set up to feed the draining water to a pump, which is then typically pumped up into one of those large laundry sinks. You’re not going to be pumping anything, so you want the water to run straight out of the tub into the bucket you will eventually set up, something like this:

Drain Detail

(5) Notes (Remove ‘brakes’): Mounted under the tub, there may be little wedges designed to ‘brake’ the tub in the event things get out of control. Get rid of these and anything else that obviously interferes with the free rotation of the tub. The washer I modified had little brake pads housed as indicated in the photo:

Brake Detail

Modifying the Trainer (drilling stuff)

(1) Get some tension pins.

(2) Get a drill bit to match.

(3) Drill three evenly spaced holes through the pulley.

(4) Position the drilled pulley onto the flywheel so that it’s perfectly centered.

(5) Drill through the flywheel.

(6) Hammer in the tension pins

Discussion:

(1-6) Notes: Take the pulley you’re going to drill to your local hardware store (in Ann Arbor, my choice is always Stadium Hardware) and say something like: “I’m going to drill through this three times and I need to put tension pins in there.” You will leave with a drill bit and three matching tension pins. Buy four pins if you plan to drop one where you can’t find it. There’s probably some quick and dirty way to lay out three evenly spaced holes on the pulley using some trick from middle-school geometry that I don’t know. I used Photoshop and printed it out. The pulley might have a flat side and a curved side. Because the flywheel to the bike trainer resistance unit is likely flat, use the rule: flat goes against flat. CRUCIAL: the holes can’t go through the ‘flangey’ part of the pulley … that’d put pins in the way of the belt. As you can see from the detail shot below, you might break off a drill bit, if you’re not careful (look at the right side). It’s important that these holes be ’straight’, that is to say at a 90 degrees angle to the surface of the pulley. I used a drill guide attachment to my hand-drill for this. A drill press would be better. Probably the best strategy is to drill the holes through the pulley first, then go for the holes through the flywheel, using the pulley as a template.

Tension Pin Detail

How do you position the pulley on the flywheel so that it’s perfectly centered? Long story short, I eyeballed it. I helped myself out by spinning the flywheel and using a Sharpie permanent marker to scribe several concentric circles onto the flywheel for additional visual reference points. I also gently rotated the flywheel (after turning the flywheel on its side) with the pulley resting where I thought it looked centered, and evaluated if it seemed centered under slow rotation. I epoxied the pulley in place, so that I didn’t have to worry about slippage during drilling of the flywheel.

Preparing the Interface (positioning stuff)

(1) Position the bicycle training-stand and the washer in a configuration you estimate will work.

(2) Take a piece of string as an ersatz belt to get an estimate of how long your belt will need to be.

(3) Take the old belt and your measurement (or just the string) to your hardware store and ask for one just like it but longer.

Drill Plywood

(4) Place the two back feet on predrilled plywood pads.

(5) Drill spaces for the washer feet and place big plywood under the washer.

(6) Install the belt with the training stand resting on the big plywood.

(7) Test out the configuration a bit.

(8) Drill holes for the training stand feet.

Discussion (1-8):

The belt drive requires a fixed distance between the two pulleys. The idea here is to engineer a plywood base to keep the bicycle training stand and the washer at a fixed distance. The washer feet furthest away from the training stand need not be a part of the rigid mechanism, but they need to be padded so that the washer isn’t off balance. The rotation of an automatic washer’s spin cycle is, as best I can tell, directional. Figure out which direction it’s supposed to go. Put the twist in the belt (necessary to convert vertical spin into horizontal spin) accordingly.

The Dirty Laundry (the downside of this project)

I initially used this configuration for about 10 loads of laundry over the course of two weeks (that’s 30 spin cycles, as I spin the clothes out between each of two rinses in the hand-cranked washer). I was quite enthusiastic about the results and I still am. I imagine I’ll keep doing the majority of our household laundry with this method long into the future. Before embarking on a similar DIY project, I advise others to consider:

(1) It takes above-average strength and conditioning to pedal the original configuration of gears I set up. Over the course of about a minute, I was able to accelerate to 50 rpms, and then sustain it for 3-4 minutes. The bicycle gearing was roughly 2:1. The ratio of the circumference of the roller contacted by the bicycle tire to the tire itself is roughly 1:25. The ratio of the drive pulley’s circumference to the working pulley is around 1:4. So the rough aritmetic for the laundry tub is (50 x 2 x 25) / 4 = 625 rpms. I don’t know what the original rating for this particular model was (I don’t know what model is was, for one thing), but when I called GE’s customer service phone line, the representative looked up a few different motor ratings for me (and by the way, that customer service rep really impressed) and from that I concluded that the range of spin-cycle rpms is something like 450-650 rpms. So this configuration spins on the high side of average. Ideally, you’d want to be spinning the pedals closer to 90 rpms, so that it’s an aerobic effort, stressing the joints less, etc. With the gearing on the original configuration, spinning the tub at a normal spin cycle speed required slow grinding of the pedals. [Update: swapping the double-ring crankset with a triple ring sporting a very small inner ring, allowed a gear ratio of close to 1:1, resulting in a pedaling rpm of close to 90.]

(2) The rider of this configuration needs to try for a super-smooth pedal stroke. Violent accelerations within the pedal stroke lead to slippage between the bicycle tire and the resistance roller. Cycling shoes that clip to the pedals (you pull up as well as push down) help to smooth this out. Still, extra concentration is required.

(3) The resistance unit itself, even on its lowest setting (if it’s a magnetic unit) will sap energy from your pedaling that could go into spinning laundry. At least the resistance on a magnetic unit (which mine was) is typically adjustable. A fluid-resistance unit would typically offer no such adjustment. [Update: I completely removed the magnetic resistance unit and replaced it with an additional drive pulley to power an electric generator.]

(4) The resistance unit will pretty much be ruined for regular indoor bicycle training even if you leave it in place. This comes from the fact that the pulley mounted to the flywheel is likely going to be off-center enough that under the higher rpms typical of an indoor training session, it will cause the unit to emit an unholy noise. Mine did, anyway.

April-Fresh Goodness: (the upside of this project)

(1) Gray water recycle-ability: I empty that bucket from the spun laundry into a toilet tank.

(2) Zero electricity for entire laundry load if you dry on a rack.

(3) Drying puts moisture into the indoor air (good in winter).

(4) Exertion on the cycle is a good workout.

(5) Exertion on the cycle throws off heat into the indoor environment (good in winter, not great in summer.)

Bear in mind for future adaptation of indoor training resistance units:

(1) Precise centering of pulley.

(2) Elimination of resistance unit resistance.

(3) Use bicycle with a granny gear to increase pedaling rpms.

Ideas:

(1) Manufacturers of resistance trainers: build V-belt groove into flyweel.

(2) Mount pulley on the bicycle wheel on the opposite side of the gear cluster.

(3) Pedal-powered laundrette in student dormitories.

Share on Facebook

So you’ve adjusted your thermostat, you put in the compact fluorescent bulbs . . . you even composted a plastic potato fiber fork from the local burrito joint.  But, how can you stay comfortable, reduce your energy use and lower your bills this winter . . . without breaking the bank?

3 Energy Savers for Under $100:

1.  Use your head:
High efficiency shower heads
$25 – $85 – Pays for itself in 3 – 7 months

No longer do you need to drain your hot water tank in order to get the shampoo out of your hair.  While delivering the same high-performance and comfort you expect, the new generation low flow shower heads use a full gallon per minute (gpm) less than a traditional shower head and up to 3.5 gallons per minute less than models from the 1980s.  That means that a family of three can save over 11,000 gallons of hot water per year just by installing a 1.5 gpm shower head.

If you decide to keep your old shower head, it will cost you an extra 300 kilowatt hours annually, enough electricity to power your television for about a year.  That’s enough to pay for your new shower head.

Hansgrohe EcoAir 1.5 gpm

American Standard FloWise 1.5 gpm

Kohler Forte’ 1.75 gpm

2.  Kill the vampire:
Smart power strips
$30 – $100 – Pays for itself in 7 – 14 months

When you’re not watching TV . . . it sucks.  No kidding.  Even in the “off” mode your television still draws electricity from the socket.  With new smart power strips, when you turn off your computer or television all of your peripherals shut down as well – killing that vampire power.  Just click your remote and viola’ . . . the smart power strip shuts down your Wii, your surround sound and all those other gadgets which are useless when your TV is off.

3.  Hire a light fairy
Vacancy sensor light switches
$20 – $40 each – Pays for itself in

“Who left the @$#&!! lights on again?!!  I’m not your light fairy!!”  Enough screaming at the kids to turn out the lights.  About 60% of lighting costs goes toward lighting empty rooms.  So, it’s time to get yourself some high quality vacancy sensors.

The sensors detect when a space becomes vacant and turn lighting off automatically after a preset time delay elapses. Users manually turn lights on or off at any time by operating the ON/OFF button.  California now requires smart lighting switches like these in all new homes.

———-

Like the “SAVE WATER . . . . Shower Together” t-shirt on the homepage?  You can buy it at Zazzle.com

Share on Facebook

Click here to listen to our Greenovation segment on The Environment Report on your local NPR station

Two rules of thumb for deciding whether to replace your toilet:

Old school 8 gallon per flush toilet

1)  if your toilet is old enough to vote, or

2)  if the tank is avocado or gold . . .

it’s time to get a new generation high-efficiency toilet.

Sit on this for a while . . . your family of three will flush the toilet over a 1/2 million times in your lifetime.  Now consider that the oldest toilets use about 8 gallons per flush and toilets installed before 1992 use at least 3.5 gallons per flush (gpf).  And by the way, that’s fresh drinking water you’re peeing in.

So with all that money going down the toilet, it’s time to upgrade to a new generation high-efficiency toilet.

WHAT IS A HIGH EFFICIENCY TOILET?

A High-Efficiency Toilet or (HET) is a toilet that uses 1.3 gpf or less.  The State of California now requires that all new toilets meet this standard. Dual flush toilets take it to the next level by offering a lower flush option of only .8 gpf.

DO THEY COST MORE?

Dual-flush HETs do not cost more.  Although they have a slightly higher up front cost (between $250 – $500), the water savings make them far less expensive over time. According to PottyGirl, if a family of four replaces one 3.5 gpf toilet made between 1980 and 1994 with a WaterSense toilet, they can save $2,000 over the lifetime of the toilet.

Dual-flush toilets give an option of .8 gallon flush.

Check out GreenandSave.com to find out your return on investment for a dual-flush HET.

DO THEY WORK? . . . A GUIDE TO LIVING A PLUNGER FREE LIFE

Yes.  They work.  They flush better and waste less.

Plumbing guru Terry Love says “with the changes in the water usage laws of 1992, many encountered plumbing problems. The first round of low-flow toilets were not quite ready for prime-time. Customer complaints were many and plumbers were in the bad position of installing products that nobody wanted to use. Recently, . . . things have changed.  Some of the new plumbing products work better than the old water wasters.”

The latest model dual-flush toilets have the option of using 1.28 gallons per flush (gpf) or a meager .8 gpf (around 12 cups).

In our Greenovation segment for the Environment Report on public radio stations we tried the Caroma Sydney which has a unique 4-inch trapway.  The .8 gallon button flushed virtually everything including 4 tennis balls, 4 potatoes, and even an entire t-shirt. No plunger required.

[MORON ALERT:  Don't try this at home!  If you get a tennis ball and your old Michael Jackson "Thriller Tour" t-shirt stuck in your sewer drain . . . don't come crying to me].

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Look for the Water Sense label.  This will ensure not only efficiency but also high performance

The 4" trapway on this Caroma dual flush eliminates clogs

HOW MUCH WILL YOU SAVE WITH A DUAL-FLUSH?

Try out this free cost savings spreadsheet:  Click here

FACTS:

On average, 30% – 40% of a family’s water bill goes down the toilet

By 2013, 36 U.S. states are predicted to experience catastrophic water shortages

Advances in toilet design permit WaterSense HETs to save water without loss of flushing power.

LEARN MORE (or “Everything you ever wanted to know about ridding your life of poop but were afraid to ask“)

WaterSense Label:  How to find money savings faucets and toilets

Video: Flushing Away Cash

Dual flush toilets retain high style while improving performance and efficiency

Today’s Best Toilets, Terry Love

Terry Love’s low-flow toilet report

Fine Homebuilding Choosing a Toilet

Kohler’s SaveWaterAmerica.com

WHERE TO BUY A DUAL FLUSH TOILET

EcoBuildingProducts Caroma

Wal-Mart American Standard

BGreen (Michigan & Northern Ohio only) Toto, Kohler, and Caroma

Home Depot Kohler, American Standard, and Foremost

BuyPluming.net Caroma and Toto

National Builder Supply Toto

Share on Facebook

by Jennifer Eschelbach, EnHouse – GreenovationTV Contributing Writer

Cheap is not always . . . cheap.  And when it comes to appliances “saving” a few bucks on an energy hog can really cost you.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, home appliances account for 17% of a typical household’s energy consumption. Replacing appliances can be a daunting task, especially considering the cost associated with replacement.

There are two costs to consider when purchasing appliances: the purchase price and the operating cost. The purchase price is how much you pay to take the appliance home, and can be thought of as a kind of down payment. The operating cost is the monthly dues to your utilities company that allow for continued use of your appliance.

Once you have decided to purchase a new appliance take time to consider both the purchase price and operating cost. Look for appliances with the Energy Star label. Energy Star products meet strict energy efficiency standards set by the Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy.

Additionally, the Federal government requires that most appliances display the bright yellow and black EnergyGuide label.

The EnergyGuide label will not tell you which appliance is the most efficient. However, it will provide information on the annual energy consumption and the operating costs, allowing you to compare for yourself.

Remember, buying a cheaper model may seem like it will save you on the front end in your purchase cost but will cost you in the long run on your operating cost. Follow these tips to ensure the wisest investment of your money:

1. Look for the Energy Star logo and read the EnergyGuide label and compare that appliance to the energy use of other models you are considering.

2. Estimate the difference in energy costs.

3. Consider both the purchase price and estimated energy usage when deciding which brand and model to buy.

4. Ask questions of your sales person and local utilities companies as there may be cash rebates, low-interest loans or other incentive programs in your area for energy-efficient product purchases. Find out if you can qualify.

By making informed and well thought-out appliance purchases you can reduce the amount of energy your appliances consume and save yourself money in the long run.

Jennifer Eschelbach is a GreenovationTV Contributing Writer and in charge of outreach for the The Environmental House Energy & Green Building Resource Center (EnHouse) in Ann Arbor, Michigan.  The EnHouse is a comprehensive resource and touring facility dedicated to furthering the causes of green building, energy efficiency and renewable energy. Jennifer is currently working on her second bachelors degree from Eastern Michigan University in Urban and Regional Planning.  She loves the smell of energy efficiency in the morning.

Share on Facebook

When Architect Carol Shen decided to renovate the kitchen in a house built in 1929, she had one goal: make it look gorgeous while creating a showcase of efficiency.  In this video, she shares the sustainable technologies, strategies and materials she used in the project.

One goal was to reuse as much as possible and minimize what went into the landfill.  When choosing new wood materials, she made sure they were from certified sustainable forests and had the Forest Stewdarship Council (FSC) seal of approval.

One of the coolest features is the new induction cooktop.  Okay you primal I-need-open-fire-to-cook-with geeks, I hear you whining.  But this electric induction cooking is winning over even the most primitive naked-ape chefs.  Unlike gas or conventional electric stoves, induction cooktops send almost all of their energy into the pot.  This reduces waste heat, lowers energy cost and keeps the surrounding cooking area cool.  You can actually place your hand on the stove top next to the pot without getting burned.

The super-efficient LED lights have the same high-style appeal of the old incandescent.  But, they reduced the energy consumption from 390 watts to a meager 72 watts (a savings of over 80%!!).  In the life-cycle competition the LEDs win hands down.  The LEDs have a lifespan of 50,000 hours compared to only 1,000 hours for the incandescents.  Boo-ya-daddy.

By installing an Energy Star front loading washing machine, Carol reduced her water consumption by almost 1,000 gallons.  The front loader has the added benefit of better washing performance while being gentler on your clothes.

What you need to know:

- FSC Certified Wood

- Energy Star Appliances

- 90% energy efficient induction cooktop

- Highly energy efficient CREE LED lighting

- Low or zero-VOC paints and finishes

- Marmoleum flooring

- Maximum use of local suppliers for sustainable materials

- Cabinets made locally from FSC certified wood.  Formaldehyde-free with soy-based glues.

- Deconstruction, donation or reuse of existing cabinets, fixtures and appliances

- Improved indoor air quality and passive cooling with use of vents and windows

From re:Source

Share on Facebook

Click here to view the embedded video.

100 million toilets out there still use 3.5 gallons per flush (gpf).  Some use as much as 7 gallons every time you pull that lever!!  Compare that to WaterSense-certified models of today that use 1.28 gallons per flush or less.

The EPA forecasts that over 36 U.S. states will experience “catastrophic” water shortages by 2013.  To make matters worse, we’re just flushing good money down the toilet.

If you have a toilet that is more than 1.6 gpf it pays to replace it now.  According to GreenAndSave.com switching  to water-efficient plumbing fixtures could save the average household as much as $50 to $100 a year on water and wastewater bills and you could stop wasting about 18,000 gallons per yer.

Your best bet is to get a new High Efficiency Toilet (HET).  A HET is a toilet that uses 1.28 gallons or less.

You might want to consider a dual-flush model.  They use as little as .8 gallons with a choice of half or full flush.  And the 4-inch trapways on some models make them almost impossible to clog.

When buying a new toilet make sure you look for the new WaterSense label.  Click here for more information.

Learn More:

WaterSense list of High Efficiency Toilets

Caroma Dual-flush Toilets

Green And Save: Toilets

Kohler’s Save Water America

Share on Facebook

During the Greenovation Evaluation of Dr. Anna Marie’s home, the Greenalysis Team finds virtually zero insulation, an ultra-wasteful toilet, an inefficient oil furnace, a 36 year old water tank, and more wallet busters than you can shake a Benjamin at.

About 58 million homes in the U.S. have no insulation at all.  Yet, it’s one of the easiest ways that you can save energy and lower your monthly bills. The team recommends a new castor oil based spray foam insulation in all of the walls and the attic.

Unbelievably, the original gas water heater from 1973 is still working. Lowering your water heater to 120 degrees can lower your energy use by 5 – 10%. Insulating your tank with an inexpensive tank wrap can help keep the water hot when not in use. Dr. Anna Marie has decided to install a new Rheem solar hot water heater to reduce her carbon footprint even further and ensure a comfortable flow of hot water.

Dr. Anna Marie bought the home with its original oil furnace. After recycling the old tank, she’ll be installing a state-of-the-art geothermal heat pump to heat and cool the home year round for a fraction of the energy of a traditional furnance and a/c. It’s a great choice made even more affordable by the new 30% tax credit from the federal government. The EPA calls geothermal the most efficient home comfort system available.

Anna Marie’s old-old school toilet uses about 5 gallons per flush!! She’s wasting over 8,000 gallons of water per year. She’ll be installng a new high-efficiency toilet with a dual flush sytem – half flush and full flush. The half flush will use only .8 gallons and will be almost impossible to clog. The complete list of recommended improvements for Dr. Anna Marie’s home can be found on her website www.TerraVerdeTV.com and more information can be found on how you can improve your home at www.Greenovation.TV

Share on Facebook