by Philip Proefrock, LEED AP, GreenovationTV contributing writer

Photo by Cat Sidh under Creative Commons 2.0 license

Greener living often starts with the things you don’t do, rather than the things that you do. With home energy, the cheapest watts are those you don’t have to pay for (what Amory Lovins calls “negawatts“). It is far better (and cheaper) to invest in efficiency than to “slap on some solar panels” to run things.

Likewise, buildings and materials have “embodied energy” in the materials and effort that went into their original fabrication. This is why renovating an existing building has significant benefits over tearing down and building new, even if the new building would be more efficient than the existing one.

But, there are some new laws coming into effect that look like they may have a negative effect on renovation and remodeling projects. Rules from the EPA (PDF) on the handling of lead paint in existing buildings take effect this April, and remodeling contractors will need to ensure that they follow new procedures, which may increase cost on some renovation projects. And the new California green building code has prompted discussion about the valuation of existing buildings in green construction.

The new CALGREEN code (PDF), which takes effect January 1, 2011, is a statewide addition to the building code that joins other systems such as Green Globes and LEED that are used to evaluate the greenness of a building. But some groups feel that renovating existing buildings is being overlooked.

Preserving an old building should get more points than it does, says Linda Dishman, executive director of the Los Angeles Conservancy.

“If you save a historic building, you can get up to three points,” Dishman says. “But if you use recycled carpet, you get one point. Is saving a whole building really the same as recycled carpet?”

The new code does not mandate the renovation of existing buildings, but there may be cases where a developer would not find enough benefit in retrofitting an existing building, and would choose instead to demolish it in order to build new. But renovation may still make good economic sense over the added costs of demolition and new construction.

New laws dealing with lead paint exposure also may cause general impacts on renovation projects. For homes, apartments, and other facilities that may be occupied by children built before 1978, special measures need to be followed to ensure that lead dust and debris does not cause additional exposure hazards.

The new measures are prescriptive practices to be followed to minimize lead contamination during the process of renovation, including steps the contractor must take to seal areas of work, protect furniture and surfaces in areas that may be exposed to lead dust and debris, and cleaning and collecting waste in a thorough and responsible manner. At Treehugger, Lloyd Alter raised some concerns about the backlash from the new rules.

Seriously, I spend a lot of time proselytizing that renovation creates labour intensive green jobs that can put a lot of unskilled people back to work. Now, on April 22, they become highly skilled and regulated jobs that require special tools, expensive bug suits, goggles and double gloves. People will just tear the things down instead.

As I understand the requirements (and, to be clear, I am not a certified remodeler), if the materials and surfaces involved in the renovation have been tested and are determined to be free of lead, then the lead-based paint renovation, repair, and painting requirements do not apply. But if lead is present, then it is prudent to deal with it in a responsible manner. The new practices will help to protect workers, as well as children under 6, who are particularly susceptible to the effects of lead poisoning. While the added steps and the certifications contractors must obtain may represent some additional costs, lead containment is a reasonable expectation for a safe renovation. And homeowners may experience a benefit of less impact on the rest of the house from the improved containment procedures.

In some instances, the cost and labor involved in extensive remodeling of buildings with large amounts of lead paint may become cost prohibitive. Hopefully, creative approaches to renovation can keep existing buildings from the wrecking ball.

Philip Proefrock is a regular contributor to GreenovationTV and a registered architect with p s proefrock architecture, based in Michigan. He is a LEED accredited professional and has taught sustainable design architectural studio at Lawrence Technological University and assisted with LEED study groups for other building professionals. He is also an architectural photographer, writer and blogger. Philip is senior contributing writer for EcoGeek.org where he concentrates on green building systems, renewable power, and transportation, and a regular contributor to JetsonGreen.com

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via The White House

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Builder groups in Indiana and Minnesota offer two different models for success for states with lagging efforts.
By: John Caulfield via EcoHome

After a slow start, the Indiana Builders Association in recent weeks has been “ramping up” its program to weatherize low-income housing and, in the process, create remodeling jobs. Builder-members participating in this effort are now weatherizing about 150 homes per week, and sometime this summer the HBA expects to meet its goal of weatherizing 3,300 units, says CEO Rick Wajda.

Indiana awarded the association $21 million of the $130 million the state received from what the federal government allocated for weatherization from the $787 billion American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009. However, through Feb. 16, Indiana had completed just less than 5%—974 out of 19,736—of the housing units it plans to weatherize under this grant. And that’s nowhere near the worst performance among all states, according to a progress report on the Department of Energy’s (DOE) Weatherization Assistance Program, which went into effect a year ago.

CLICK HERE TO READ MORE

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More and more communities are looking for better ways to manage their urban forests. Whether that means seeking more eco-friendly options, or supporting more local initiatives, or both, developing a program to reclaim community wood will assist in reaching those goals.

Urbanwood isn’t really much different from traditional wood. It’s durable, beautiful and renewable. The only difference is that it doesn’t come from typical forests or lumber yards. Rather, it grows in backyards, parks, and neighborhoods.

John "Sawmill John" Haling is an urban sawyer in Michigan. Photo by Peter Hoffman.

Unfortunately, trees removed from our cities are often seen as waste, and generally end up in a chipper. Urbanwood programs seek to end this cycle, by working to save logs. This creates a wide variety of green products, conserves resources, and supports local jobs.

Turning an urban tree into a finished product is labor-intensive, but well worth the effort. Hazardous trees are removed due to death, disease, or development. Quality logs are handpicked and set aside. Local mills process the logs one at a time to preserve each one’s unique character. The lumber from this “waste” wood becomes beautiful furniture or flooring for your home.

Furniture made from urban wood by designer Paul Hickman

The U.S. Commerce Department found that 73,000 American furniture jobs were eliminated between 2000 and 2002. During the same period, U.S. sales of Chinese-made furniture exploded from $405 million to $5.82 billion.

Municipalities and urban areas can reach their environmental and think-local-first goals with an urbanwood program in more than one way. The most important aspect is to promote the highest and best use of a community’s wood resources. Secondly, by capturing the lumber value contained in trees and utilizing it within the communities it came from, jobs are created and dollars are kept right in the neighborhoods.

According to Jessica Simons, a project coordinator for the Southeast Michigan Resource Conservation and Development Council’s Urbanwood program, “Southeastern Michigan’s dead urban trees could produce enough lumber to build 362 average-sized homes each year.”

Urbanwood is a natural choice for green building projects, because it conserves resources by keeping good wood from going to waste. Since all harvesting, processing, and sales happen locally, urbanwood products create fewer transportation emissions than other eco-friendly options.

In addition to the environmental and economic benefits, programs are rewarded through building connections between producers and end users. Urbanwood programs also increase the opportunity to enhance public understanding of sustainable working forests and landscapes.

Kitchen cabinets made from dead urban ash trees

To learn more about urbanwood programs that are currently in operation all over the country, visit the following Web sites:

Southeastern Michigan (http://urbanwood.org),

Mid-Atlantic region (http://www.urbanwoodexchange.org),

Los Angeles (http://www.urbanwoods.net),

Chicago (http://illinoisurbanwood.org)

Seattle and San Francisco (http://www.urbanhardwoods.com).

Jennifer Eschelbach is a GreenovationTV Contributing Writer and in charge of outreach for the The Environmental House Energy & Green Building Resource Center (EnHouse) in Ann Arbor, Michigan.  The EnHouse is a comprehensive resource and touring facility dedicated to furthering the causes of green building, energy efficiency and renewable energy. Jennifer is currently working on her second bachelors degree from Eastern Michigan University in Urban and Regional Planning.  She loves the smell of energy efficiency in the morning.
Music featured in video by Josh Woodward (Creative Commons)

Photos courtesy Paul Hickman and Peter Hoffman

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Listen to Matt’s story on The Environment Report syndicated on NPR stations nationwide.

We know that a hardware store sells hardware.  So, what in the world does a ReStore sell? . . . . It sells any kind of RE you can imagine: REducing, REusing, REcycling .

Habitat ReStores are retail outlets which help you restore your house for a fraction of the cost while helping out a great cause.  In addition to

Bathroom made with reused material from reuse centers: mirror, clawfoot tub, sink, marble floor, picture frame, moldings, plumbing parts, cabinets, antique doors and paint Photo by Dave Lewinski

raising funds for Habitat for Humanity, ReStores help the environment by keeping quality, usable materials out of landfills and putting them back into good use.

Materials sold by Habitat ReStores are usually donated from building supply stores, contractors, demolition crews or from individuals who want to support Habitat for Humanity and keep stuff out of landfills.

When our very own Dr. Anna Marie renovated her home in Florida, she donated all of the old cabinets and appliances to her local Habitat ReStore (watch the video).  When Kelly and I needed reclaimed brick for our patio, salvaged lumber for our moldings, antique doors and a claw foot tub for the new bathroom, an outdoor fireplace, plumbing supplies, and even tools, we found it all (and more) at the ReStore and saved tons of money.

Reuse centers like the ReStore can be found in virtually every community in North America (see below to find a store near you).  They are a green remodeler’s dream come true and a perfect way to reach the goal of zero waste.

You can literally build an entire house from materials from a reuse center.

You’ll typically save 50% – 90% by skipping the big box stores and finding what you need at a ReStore.  So, use fewer natural resources, keep good stuff out of landfills, help a charity and save a little money . . . You can’t beat that.

Check out The Story of Stuff if you’re not already convinced about reuse.  You’ll definitely want to check out all the cool stuff over at the great new website www.AltUse.com if you’re looking for alternative uses for stuff you’ve got laying around the house but can’t bring yourself to drop by the ReStore.

by Matt Grocoff

Related Links:

Habitat ReStore Directory – United States

Habitat ReStore Directory – Canada

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A behind the scenes look into the world of reclaimed and sustainable wood and an eco-friendly company that creates eco-friendly flooring from reclaimed, salvaged and FSC certified wood.

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Photos Courtesy of Dave Askins

If you want to save some energy, one of the first appliances to target is your washing machine.  You could buy yourself a high efficiency front loading washer and really save some energy and water.  Or, if you’re as committed as Dave Askins, you could build your own washer out of some reused parts and power the washer with your own calories.

Dave's Amish Handcranked Washer

This is not some proof of concept or some demonstration project.  This is actually how Dave does his laundry.  On his website, HomelessDave.com Dave has tracked every bicycle powered load of laundry he’s done since July 2007 (149 and counting).

To be fair, Dave doesn’t use his bicycle to power his entire wash, spin and rinse cycles.  He gets a little help from the Amish.  For the wash cycle he uses an Amish-style “James Handwasher.”  It washes clothes, not hands.

The bicycle helps Dave spin the clothes dry without using a labor-intensive, and inferior, hand-cranked wringer.

Once he realized his system worked, Dave added an electric power generator so that he could watch TV or DVDs while he does his laundry. 

For answers to all your questions about building your own pedal-powered washer visit Dave’s website . Dave Askins is the publisher of the Ann Arbor Chronicle.

How Dave Did It . . .

From www.HomelessDave.com

Additional documentation is organized based on these three elements. [Click here for details on electric power generation.  This is how Dave can watch "J.J. The Jet Plane" while he does his laundry]

Modifying the Washer (unbolting stuff)

(1) Remove the white metal shell from the washing machine.

(2) Remove the electric motor from the washing machine frame.

(3) Remove the pulley from the motor shaft.

(4) Detach the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump.

(5) Remove ‘brakes’.

(6) Save the belt from the pulley.

Discussion:

Tension Roller

(1) Notes (Remove the white metal shell from the washing machine): Just unscrew every nut/screw you can find. Most of them are pretty accessible. Be prepared to cut some electrical wires. What you want is the part you see pictured above. Or something like it.

(2) Notes (Remove the electric motor from the washing machine frame): This will require navigating a wrench into very tight spaces. It pays to have a very small socket driver. When you’re tearing out the motor, preserve the tension roller arm [cf. picture]. This is important for keeping the drive belt on the pulley under high rpms.

(3) Notes (Remove the pulley from the motor shaft) The motor I dealt with was attached to the shaft with a tension pin. I knocked it out with a nail set. There may be two pulleys on the same motor shaft, one driving the washer and one driving the pump. The one you want is the one driving the washer.

(4) Notes (Detach the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump) The automatic washer is set up to feed the draining water to a pump, which is then typically pumped up into one of those large laundry sinks. You’re not going to be pumping anything, so you want the water to run straight out of the tub into the bucket you will eventually set up, something like this:

Drain Detail

(5) Notes (Remove ‘brakes’): Mounted under the tub, there may be little wedges designed to ‘brake’ the tub in the event things get out of control. Get rid of these and anything else that obviously interferes with the free rotation of the tub. The washer I modified had little brake pads housed as indicated in the photo:

Brake Detail

Modifying the Trainer (drilling stuff)

(1) Get some tension pins.

(2) Get a drill bit to match.

(3) Drill three evenly spaced holes through the pulley.

(4) Position the drilled pulley onto the flywheel so that it’s perfectly centered.

(5) Drill through the flywheel.

(6) Hammer in the tension pins

Discussion:

(1-6) Notes: Take the pulley you’re going to drill to your local hardware store (in Ann Arbor, my choice is always Stadium Hardware) and say something like: “I’m going to drill through this three times and I need to put tension pins in there.” You will leave with a drill bit and three matching tension pins. Buy four pins if you plan to drop one where you can’t find it. There’s probably some quick and dirty way to lay out three evenly spaced holes on the pulley using some trick from middle-school geometry that I don’t know. I used Photoshop and printed it out. The pulley might have a flat side and a curved side. Because the flywheel to the bike trainer resistance unit is likely flat, use the rule: flat goes against flat. CRUCIAL: the holes can’t go through the ‘flangey’ part of the pulley … that’d put pins in the way of the belt. As you can see from the detail shot below, you might break off a drill bit, if you’re not careful (look at the right side). It’s important that these holes be ‘straight’, that is to say at a 90 degrees angle to the surface of the pulley. I used a drill guide attachment to my hand-drill for this. A drill press would be better. Probably the best strategy is to drill the holes through the pulley first, then go for the holes through the flywheel, using the pulley as a template.

Tension Pin Detail

How do you position the pulley on the flywheel so that it’s perfectly centered? Long story short, I eyeballed it. I helped myself out by spinning the flywheel and using a Sharpie permanent marker to scribe several concentric circles onto the flywheel for additional visual reference points. I also gently rotated the flywheel (after turning the flywheel on its side) with the pulley resting where I thought it looked centered, and evaluated if it seemed centered under slow rotation. I epoxied the pulley in place, so that I didn’t have to worry about slippage during drilling of the flywheel.

Preparing the Interface (positioning stuff)

(1) Position the bicycle training-stand and the washer in a configuration you estimate will work.

(2) Take a piece of string as an ersatz belt to get an estimate of how long your belt will need to be.

(3) Take the old belt and your measurement (or just the string) to your hardware store and ask for one just like it but longer.

Drill Plywood

(4) Place the two back feet on predrilled plywood pads.

(5) Drill spaces for the washer feet and place big plywood under the washer.

(6) Install the belt with the training stand resting on the big plywood.

(7) Test out the configuration a bit.

(8) Drill holes for the training stand feet.

Discussion (1-8):

The belt drive requires a fixed distance between the two pulleys. The idea here is to engineer a plywood base to keep the bicycle training stand and the washer at a fixed distance. The washer feet furthest away from the training stand need not be a part of the rigid mechanism, but they need to be padded so that the washer isn’t off balance. The rotation of an automatic washer’s spin cycle is, as best I can tell, directional. Figure out which direction it’s supposed to go. Put the twist in the belt (necessary to convert vertical spin into horizontal spin) accordingly.

The Dirty Laundry (the downside of this project)

I initially used this configuration for about 10 loads of laundry over the course of two weeks (that’s 30 spin cycles, as I spin the clothes out between each of two rinses in the hand-cranked washer). I was quite enthusiastic about the results and I still am. I imagine I’ll keep doing the majority of our household laundry with this method long into the future. Before embarking on a similar DIY project, I advise others to consider:

(1) It takes above-average strength and conditioning to pedal the original configuration of gears I set up. Over the course of about a minute, I was able to accelerate to 50 rpms, and then sustain it for 3-4 minutes. The bicycle gearing was roughly 2:1. The ratio of the circumference of the roller contacted by the bicycle tire to the tire itself is roughly 1:25. The ratio of the drive pulley’s circumference to the working pulley is around 1:4. So the rough aritmetic for the laundry tub is (50 x 2 x 25) / 4 = 625 rpms. I don’t know what the original rating for this particular model was (I don’t know what model is was, for one thing), but when I called GE’s customer service phone line, the representative looked up a few different motor ratings for me (and by the way, that customer service rep really impressed) and from that I concluded that the range of spin-cycle rpms is something like 450-650 rpms. So this configuration spins on the high side of average. Ideally, you’d want to be spinning the pedals closer to 90 rpms, so that it’s an aerobic effort, stressing the joints less, etc. With the gearing on the original configuration, spinning the tub at a normal spin cycle speed required slow grinding of the pedals. [Update: swapping the double-ring crankset with a triple ring sporting a very small inner ring, allowed a gear ratio of close to 1:1, resulting in a pedaling rpm of close to 90.]

(2) The rider of this configuration needs to try for a super-smooth pedal stroke. Violent accelerations within the pedal stroke lead to slippage between the bicycle tire and the resistance roller. Cycling shoes that clip to the pedals (you pull up as well as push down) help to smooth this out. Still, extra concentration is required.

(3) The resistance unit itself, even on its lowest setting (if it’s a magnetic unit) will sap energy from your pedaling that could go into spinning laundry. At least the resistance on a magnetic unit (which mine was) is typically adjustable. A fluid-resistance unit would typically offer no such adjustment. [Update: I completely removed the magnetic resistance unit and replaced it with an additional drive pulley to power an electric generator.]

(4) The resistance unit will pretty much be ruined for regular indoor bicycle training even if you leave it in place. This comes from the fact that the pulley mounted to the flywheel is likely going to be off-center enough that under the higher rpms typical of an indoor training session, it will cause the unit to emit an unholy noise. Mine did, anyway.

April-Fresh Goodness: (the upside of this project)

(1) Gray water recycle-ability: I empty that bucket from the spun laundry into a toilet tank.

(2) Zero electricity for entire laundry load if you dry on a rack.

(3) Drying puts moisture into the indoor air (good in winter).

(4) Exertion on the cycle is a good workout.

(5) Exertion on the cycle throws off heat into the indoor environment (good in winter, not great in summer.)

Bear in mind for future adaptation of indoor training resistance units:

(1) Precise centering of pulley.

(2) Elimination of resistance unit resistance.

(3) Use bicycle with a granny gear to increase pedaling rpms.

Ideas:

(1) Manufacturers of resistance trainers: build V-belt groove into flyweel.

(2) Mount pulley on the bicycle wheel on the opposite side of the gear cluster.

(3) Pedal-powered laundrette in student dormitories.

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by Jennifer Eschelbach, EnHouse – GreenovationTV Contributing Writer

When it comes to improving the efficiency of your windows, replacement is helpful but is not always the most cost effective solution.  Replacement windows can cost between $500 per window for cheap (and worthless) vinyl to $1,000 per window for high end (and far more efficient) Pella or Anderson brands.

Several simple remedies can help improve the efficiency and comfort level in your home. Windows were originally designed to look good while letting in the light and the view. But old windows are lousy at keeping your home cozy. Please don’t fret . . . there are easy ways to improve the efficiency of your existing windows.

If you’ve got really old windows with sash weights, watch this video from This Old House to learn how to use a “spring balance” to replace that sash weight and leave room to add insulation in your window cavity.

In the meantime, check out these ridiculously easy and cheap solutions to make your windows a little more friendly this winter.

Solution #1: Window Treatments:  Cost $0 (if you use your existing shades)

Window treatments are one of the cheapest ways to modestly improve efficiency.  Keeping shades open can reduce the need for artificial lighting.  But window dressings can also be used to reduce heat loss in the winter (at night), and heat gain in the summer (during the day).

Common energy-saving window treatments include interior blinds, draperies and shades. Interior blinds, either either horizontal or vertical, are a good choice because the slats can be used to control light and ventilation. However, this option is most effective in the summer months for reducing heat gain.

Draperies are effective during heating and cooling seasons, though their effectiveness is dependent on color and fabric. During the summer months, drapes should remain closed during the day to prevent heat gain. In the winter months, close all of your drapes at night.  During the day, close any drapes that don’t receive any daylight to reduce heat loss. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, closing drapes during cold months can reduce heat loss in a room by up to 10%.

Shades are another valuable tool to combat both heat loss and heat gain. In the summer, lower shades on sunlit windows to reduce heat gain, and in the winter raise shades on the south side of the house during the day and lower them all at night. Dual shades which have one highly reflective side and one absorbing side, are extremely effective, because they can be reversed with the seasons. The reflective side should always face the warmest side, out during the summer and in during the winter. Utilizing window treatments is a good first step toward maximizing the efficiency of your windows.

Solution #2: Caulk: Cost $5

Products such as caulk, rope caulk and window insulation kits may also improve efficiency. Use caulk and rope caulk to seal air leaks in and around windows. Caulk is a lasting solution for sealing cracks and gaps that are about one-quarter-inch wide.

For a more flexible remedy, rope caulk can be applied in the winter and easily removed in the summer. Rope caulk can be used to seal airflow in window tracks, seals and any other drafty spots.

You can easily add some insulation to old windows that have sash weights.  Check out this video from This Old House to find out how.

Solution #3: Insulation Kits: Cost $11.99

Finally, you can add a second layer of glazing to the inside of your windows with a plastic window insulation kit. By adding a buffer against drafts and extra sill air space you can cut down on heat loss and boost your home’s ability to hold heat. If installed and removed carefully, window insulation kits can be reused for several years.

Windows add to the character and appeal of a space. Replacing them can be costly and unnecessary. Before deciding to invest in replacement windows, try these tips to improve efficiency. Consider what the payback might be for replacing windows, and make an informed decision.

WHERE TO BUY:

Insulating shades:

Rope Caulk:

Window Insulation Kits:

Jennifer Eschelbach is a GreenovationTV Contributing Writer and in charge of outreach for the The Environmental House Energy & Green Building Resource Center (EnHouse) in Ann Arbor, Michigan.  The EnHouse is a comprehensive resource and touring facility dedicated to furthering the causes of green building, energy efficiency and renewable energy. Jennifer is currently working on her second bachelors degree from Eastern Michigan University in Urban and Regional Planning.  She loves the smell of energy efficiency in the morning.

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A nonprofit environmental research organization released results last week on over 900 common products tested for toxic chemicals including lead, cadmium, mercury, bromine, chlorine (PVC) and arsenic. Using an XRF analyzer, researchers at the Ecology Center analyzed the ingredients of pet products, cars, women’s handbags, children’s car seats and more, creating the largest database yet of independent tests of toxic chemicals in consumer goods.

The results can be found on the user-friendly website: www.HealthyStuff.org. Visitors can look up products by manufacturer, brand, or product type and easily generate lists of highly rated and poorly rated products.

HealthyStuff.org tested for chemicals based on their toxicity, persistence and tendency to build up in people and the environment. Such chemicals have been linked to reproductive problems, developmental and learning disabilities, liver toxicity and cancer.

“The more we test, the more we find that the presence of toxic chemicals is widespread in everyday consumer products,” said Jeff Gearhart, Research Director at the Ecology Center, who created the site. “It should not be the responsibility of public health advocates to test these products. Product manufacturers and legislators must take the lead and replace dangerous substances with safe alternatives.”

For the past several years the Ecology Center has spearheaded groundbreaking research on toxic chemicals in toys, cars and children’s car seats at HealthyToys.org and HealthyCar.org. HealthyStuff.org is a compilation of all of these findings and more.

New Key Findings From HealthyStuff.org:

* Pet Products – HealthyStuff.org tested over 400 pet products, including beds, chew toys, collars and leashes. Since there are no government standards for hazardous chemicals in pet products, it is not surprising that alarming levels of toxic chemicals were found. One quarter of all pet products had detectable levels of lead, including seven percent with levels higher than 300 ppm – the current Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) standard for lead in children’s products.

* Automobiles – HealthyStuff.org tested nearly 700 new and used vehicles, from 1980 to 2010 model year vehicles. The US-made Pontiac G5 and Chevy Cobalt rated best overall 2009 vehicles. Levels of some chemicals found in vehicles are 5-10 times higher than in homes or offices. Since the average American spends more than 1.5 hours in their car every day, this can be a major source of toxic chemical exposure.

* Children’s Car Seats – Infant and child car seats contain chemical additives that can have adverse health effects on babies and young children. Over half (58%) of car seats contain one or more hazardous chemicals, including PVC, BFRs and heavy metals. Three examples of car seats that had none of the chemicals tested for are: Baby Trend Flex-Loc; the Graco Nautilus 3-in-1 Car Seat; and the Graco Turbo Booster. Despite the toxic chemicals, it is vital to use a car seat for your child because they do save lives.

* Back-to-School Products – HealthyStuff.org screened over 60 common back-to-school supplies, including backpacks, pencil cases, binders and lunchboxes. Far too many of these supplies are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and 22% contained detectable levels of lead. Overall nearly 90% of back-to-school supplies contained one or more chemicals of concern.

* Women’s Handbags – HealthyStuff.org tested over 100 women’s handbags and detected lead in over 75% of the bags analyzed. Sixty-four percent (64%) of the bags contained lead over 300 ppm – the CPSC limit for lead in children’s products. Over half of the handbags contain more than 1,000 ppm lead.

Reforming the Toxic Substances Control Act

In response to increasing consumer demand for safer products, Senator Frank Lautenberg and Representative Bobby Rush are expected to introduce a new bill this Congressional session to reform the outdated Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) – the current federal law for regulating chemicals. These reforms would phase out the most dangerous chemicals from the manufacturing process; require industry to take responsibility for the safety of their products; and use the best science to protect vulnerable groups. To date the EPA has required testing on only about 200 of the more than 80,000 chemicals that have been on the market since the law was passed 33 years ago.

“A Made in the USA label should be a guarantee, not a warning,” said Charlotte Brody, National Field Director for Safer Chemicals, Healthy Families, a coalition working toward toxic chemical policy reform. “This database of products is further proof that our system of testing and regulating toxic chemicals is broken. We have an opportunity to reform federal law this year and start putting common sense limits on harmful chemicals to protect the health of Americans.”

“HealthyStuff.org is an invaluable resource for busy parents who are concerned about toxic chemicals in children’s products,” said Mom’s Rising President Joan Blades. “But it shouldn’t be up to parents to look up every single item to find out if toxic chemicals are used. We need reform of the Toxic Substances Control Act now.”

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Dr. Anna Marie begins the greenovation of her 1970s ranch house, which she calls “Terra Verde” (Green Acres). She begins by cleaning up the overgrown landscaping, digging up then recycling the toxic fuel tank from the yard, and donating any good material and appliances to the Habitat for Humanity ReStore.

Show notes:

1. TURN YARD SCRAPS INTO LANDSCAPING MULCH. Don’t create a burn pile. Some cities outlaw burn piles because they contribute to smog and global warming. In the video, Dr. Anna Marie uses a Bobcat to spread her mulch. If possible, it’s best to order a pizza and get the neighbors to bring their wheel barrows over for a carbon-free mulch spreading party.

2. RECYCLE ALL METAL OR WOOD THAN CAN’T BE SALVAGED.

3. DONATE ALL USABLE MATERIAL TO A HABITAT RESTORE OR OTHER REUSE CENTER NEAR YOU. Reduce, reduce, reduce . . . then Reuse and Recycle!!

Click here to find a Habitat ReStore or to find other reuse centers in your area visit the resources page at www.Greenovation.TV.

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1. Energy Efficiency:

Geothermal heating, cooling and hot water – We used Envision by Waterfurnace is 30 SEER a/c; up to 500%. (5 COP). Read the article about our system in MetroMode Magazine. Learn more about geothermal.

Find a contractor anywhere in the U.S.

Geothermal Contractors in Ann Arbor:
Meadowlark Builders, (734) 332-1500
Michigan Energy Services, (888) 339-7700
Haley Mechanical, WaterFurnace vendor (800) 871-7993
Jetstream Heating & Cooling, Geocomfort System – Tom Fauser (734) 668-8010

Fact: U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has said geothermal heat pumps are, “the most energy-efficient, environmentally clean, and cost-effective space conditioning systems available today.”

Occupancy sensors Wattstopper on all light switches – turns off lights automatically in unoccupied rooms. California now requires these in all new home construction.

Installed by Dan Delzoppo Electric 734-930-1630 – Our favorite contractor!

Available at Gross Electric in 2232 South Industrial Hwy., Ann Arbor, MI 48104 (734) 665-8676

Available online at EcoHaus

Cellulose Insulation: blown cellulose made from recycled newspaper. R-50 in attic / R-18 in walls. Attics can be easy DIY projects. But, for walls we strongly recommend a professional with the right equipment and experience to ensure proper fill. Learn more

Installed by:
Farmer’s Insulation in Ann Arbor – Guy Murphy (734) 769-0066
Note: Our infrared camera test showed excellent coverage. Great job Guy!!

Open-cell spray foam insulation in basement between foundation and floor framing. Provides an excellent air and thermal barrier. This is also an excellent choice for attics and walls.
Arbor Insulation
734.786.1664

Energy Star appliances – Helpful hint: For 50% – 75% off on energy efficient appliances look for a Sears Appliance Outlet Store near you (there’s one in Livonia and Taylor, MI)

Change to appliances that have earned the ENERGY STAR, and you could save hundreds of dollars a year in energy costs, while saving the environment.

Energy-saving light fixtures; compact fluorescent lights throughout

“A household that invested $90 in changing 30 fixtures to CFLs would save $440 to $1,500 over the five-year life of the bulbs, depending on your cost of electricity. Look at your utility bill and imagine a 12% discount to estimate the savings.” The End of the Light Bulb as We Know It. US News & World Report, 19 December 2007.

Easy Do-it-Yourself Items to eliminate air leaks and gaps in your house:

Great Stuff foam for sealing around window casings, basement gaps, chimneys, attics, etc. When you add up all the little gaps in your house, it can be the equivalent of leaving a window open all year long. Check out the Great Stuff website “Interactive House” for cool tips on sealing your home.

Rope Caulk to help seal those pesky gaps in your old windows. Available in brown or gray. You can purchase rope caulk online or at any local hardware or home improvement store. Cost: $5.25

Reel lawn mower – German made by Brill Luxus. Weighs only 17 lbs and easier to push than a gas mower. Zero Carbon and ultra-quiet.

Check out the Brill Luxus 38 and the all new Brill Razor Cut 38

We LOVE these mowers!! This ain’t your granddaddy’s push mower. You’ll wonder why anyone uses hard to push, noisy, smelly, polluting gas mowers.

Smart Strip – WE LOVE THIS!! Power strip designed to kill that Vampire Power that is sucking hundreds of watts . . . even when you’re not using your electronics. Click “shut down” on your computer or “off” on your TV remote and it will automatically turn off all the peripherals too – DVD, Wii, surround sound, printer, fax, hard drives, or whatever. It will pay for itself in a few short months. Available online at Amazon and other retailers.

2. Water Efficiency:
The Average U.S. Home Uses 300 – 700 gallons per day! Look for the new EPA Watersense label for outstanding water savings.

High efficiency 1.5 gpm Bricor showerheads and .5 gpm faucet aerators
A family of 3 will save around 11,000 gallons of HOT water every year. This is not only a water saver, but a huge energy saver as well. This brilliant technology will pay for itself in as little as 7 months!! Every shower should have one of these. No more excuses. Simply the best shower you can get.
Online Retailers $64.95: Black Energy and EFI

Caroma High Efficiency Toilets (HET) – dual flush allows for half flush (.8 gallons) or full flush (1.6 gallons). Caroma is beautifully designed. And, with a 4″ trap, they are nearly impossible to clog. Can save thousands of gallons of water per year. They’ll pay for themselves in a few years. Other Brands to Look For: Kohler, Sterling and Toto too!

Find a Caroma Retailer: http://www.caromausa.com/distributors/
Available online: BuyPlumbing for under $400

Rainwater capture used for irrigation – We got ours made from reused Michigan oak wine barrels from St. Julian Winery. There are plenty of places to buy rain barrels or you can make your own. Believe it or not, for every inch of rain that falls on a catchment area of 1,000 square feet, you can expect to collect approximately 600 gallons of rainwater. 5 inches of rain falling on a 2,000 square foot roof area will generate about 6,000 gallons of rainwater!

3. Materials:

Bioshield Floor Coatings. Antique heart pine floors sanded then refinished using natural penetrating Bioshield Hard Oil #9 for a durable, water resistant and non-toxic finish. You can often catch great closeout deals on the Bioshield website.

Find a retailer

Shower & Bath Tiles made with Recycled Content – American Olean – Available at Lowes and other tile retailers. Find a retailer

Salvaged clawfoot tub from Craigslist.org – For refinishing the interior of the tub, we used (and highly recommend) Ron Benedict of Ann Arbor Perma-Glaze
New Hudson MI 48165 (US)
Phone: 248-437-1370
Bathroom floors made from second hand marble. Highly durable.
Medicine chest mirror made from antique picture frame.

Other Materials Considerations:
Reused salvaged trimwork wherever possible

Sustainably Harvested Wood: When buying new wood, insist on Forest Stewardship Council‘s FSC Certiciation or Rainforest Alliance Certification.
Donate excess materials for reuse – Habitat for Humanity Restore or Ann Arbor Reuse Center
Compost bins for yard and kitchen scraps
1 Gallon trash can in kitchen – prevents us from creating too much waste for landfill
Compost pail at kitchen sink to collect kitchen scraps for compost – not the disposal or trash.
Reclaimed brick walkways – reuses material and minimizes stormwater runoff.

4. Indoor Environmental Quality:
Fact: Indoor air is sometimes three times more polluted than outdoor air. According to the EPA, poor indoor air quality is considered to be one of the top 5 hazards to human health. Paints and finishes, furniture, flooring, wood & cabinet adhesives, mold and poor ventilation are among the leading causes.

Third Party Certification for Indoor Air Quality: Look for Green Seal or GreenGuard certification.

Zero-VOC Paints: These are the best small brands are superior paints for everyone, but particularly for the chemically sensitive: Safecoat, Yolo Colorhouse,
Major brands (sometimes cost a little less and are now widely available) FreshAire Choice from Home Depot, Olympic Premium Paint (Available at Lowes), Pittsburgh Paints, Sherwin Williams Harmony (NOTE: Harmony is NOT GreenSeal or GreenGuard Certified and is only a “low”-VOC rather than zero-VOC) and others. Just make sure you ask for Zero-VOC paint at the paint or hardware store.

Wood floor finish: For our antique heart pine we used Bioshield Hard Oil #9 (see above) Different coatings are suited for different woods. So, make sure you ask what is best for your wood floor. Also, check out the premium line of eco-friendly finishes from SafeCoat. Bioshield and SafeCoat are both available online at www.EcoHaus.com

Whispergreen Panasonic high-efficiency motion sensor bath fan – improves indoor air quality, reduces mold and uses minimal energy. This fan is virtually silent and uses very little energy. We love it!

Available at
Gross Electric – 2232 South Industrial Hwy., Ann Arbor, 734-665-8676
Online at WestsideWholesale ($130 – $160) Plumber’s Surplus ,

Zero or Low-VOC Adhesives: Henkel Green Series zero-VOC adhesive for sub-floor in new bathroom. You will love the ways these clean up!! No more nasty chemicals to remove the other nasty chemicals that get stuck on your hands. Best of all . . . almost NO SMELL.

Furniture: antiques or reused are the best – Craigslist, Freecycle, or eBay – But, if you must buy new make sure it is durable and free from toxic brominated flame retardants (PBDEs / BFRs), PVC or formaldehyde and is made from FSC or Rainforest Alliance certified wood. Many major brands are going green. Check these out: Pottery Barn, Crate & Barrel, Lee, Bob Williams+Mitchell Gold. Also, look for products that are C2C (Cradle 2 Cradle) certified.

Rugs and Floor coverings made from natural materials – free from toxic flame retardants (PBDE) or vinyl

Our Wish List:
Energy Recovery Ventilator – ventilate fresh air and recover 80% of heat loss ($700 – $2,000 installed)
Solar and/or Wind Power to provide our remaining energy load ($30k-$50k)
Solatubes for natural daylighting in the closets and dark spaces. ($300 each)
More forward thinking political leaders

Tell us what is on your greenovation wish list . . .

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Yes it’s true – Liters of light really can light dark spaces for free.  During a blackout, a Brazilian man took an empty 2-liter soda bottle, filled it with water and poked them through holes in the roof of his workshop.  Viola!  Carbon-free light.  The light from each 2-liter bottle creates the same amount of light as a 50 watt incandescent bulb.

Now of course this remarkable DIY tip has its limitations.  It might not be a good idea to rip a 4″ inch hole in your roof in colder climates.  But, this is a great applications for garages, sheds, barns, workspaces, etc.  Why turn on an energy sucking bulb in your garden shed when you can get free light from the sun?

Here’s how to make your own Liter of Light.  Try it.  Then send us your photos of your Liters of Light.

1.  Fill a clear 2-liter soda bottle with water.

2.  Drop in two caps of bleach (or 6 caps of hydrogen peroxide).

3.  Screw on the cap and cover it with a small black film canister.

4.  Cut a hole in the roof the exact diameter of the bottles.

5.  Place the bottle snuggly through the hole – leaving 1/4 of the bottle exposed to the outside.

6.  Run a bead of low-VOC caulk or sealant around the bottle to seal the hole (avoid using any toxic product).

7.  Enjoy years of free daylight!

Send us your photos of your Liters of Light.  Let us know what you think.  Oh yeah . . . these don’t work at night.  So, don’t come crying to me.

TIPS:

Try tubular skylights in your home for a more durable fix.

SolaTube

Velux

TruLite

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