From Google.org

Today we’re excited to introduce the Google PowerMeter API on code.google.com, for developers interested in integrating with Google PowerMeter. This API will allow device manufacturers to build home energy monitoring devices that work with Google PowerMeter. We’re launching this API in order to help build the ecosystem of innovative developers working towards making energy information more widely available to consumers.

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Find other homes, or monitor your own, at www.Wattvision.com

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Listen to Matt’s story on The Environment Report syndicated on NPR stations nationwide.

We know that a hardware store sells hardware.  So, what in the world does a ReStore sell? . . . . It sells any kind of RE you can imagine: REducing, REusing, REcycling .

Habitat ReStores are retail outlets which help you restore your house for a fraction of the cost while helping out a great cause.  In addition to

Bathroom made with reused material from reuse centers: mirror, clawfoot tub, sink, marble floor, picture frame, moldings, plumbing parts, cabinets, antique doors and paint Photo by Dave Lewinski

raising funds for Habitat for Humanity, ReStores help the environment by keeping quality, usable materials out of landfills and putting them back into good use.

Materials sold by Habitat ReStores are usually donated from building supply stores, contractors, demolition crews or from individuals who want to support Habitat for Humanity and keep stuff out of landfills.

When our very own Dr. Anna Marie renovated her home in Florida, she donated all of the old cabinets and appliances to her local Habitat ReStore (watch the video).  When Kelly and I needed reclaimed brick for our patio, salvaged lumber for our moldings, antique doors and a claw foot tub for the new bathroom, an outdoor fireplace, plumbing supplies, and even tools, we found it all (and more) at the ReStore and saved tons of money.

Reuse centers like the ReStore can be found in virtually every community in North America (see below to find a store near you).  They are a green remodeler’s dream come true and a perfect way to reach the goal of zero waste.

You can literally build an entire house from materials from a reuse center.

You’ll typically save 50% – 90% by skipping the big box stores and finding what you need at a ReStore.  So, use fewer natural resources, keep good stuff out of landfills, help a charity and save a little money . . . You can’t beat that.

Check out The Story of Stuff if you’re not already convinced about reuse.  You’ll definitely want to check out all the cool stuff over at the great new website www.AltUse.com if you’re looking for alternative uses for stuff you’ve got laying around the house but can’t bring yourself to drop by the ReStore.

by Matt Grocoff

Related Links:

Habitat ReStore Directory – United States

Habitat ReStore Directory – Canada

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Click Here to listen to our shower head segment on The Environment Report syndicated on public radio stations nationwide

POP QUIZ:

Which of These Household Items Wastes the Most Energy? HINT: It’s the one without the plug

a. Refrigerator

b. Dishwasher

c. Plasma Screen with Surround Sound

d. Showerhead

Wasting Shower Water Wastes Energy

We Americans really love our showers.  We shower more often and longer than any other culture on the planet (see below for useless facts about shower habits). To enjoy our drenching showers, the average household annually spends $400-600 on water-heating, which doesn’t include the additional $300 spent on water bills.

By 2013, 36 states are expected to experience catastrophic water shortages.  But, if don’t care that 900 million people globally don’t have access to clean drinking water, maybe you’ll have some compassion for that $100 bill in your wallet.

It’s easy to forget that saving water in the shower is actually saving energy.  After your heat and a/c, your showerhead and sink faucets are the second biggest energy hogs in your home.

The good news is there is a really simple solution, even if you can’t afford to upgrade your water heater.  Replacing your current showerhead with a state-of-the-art low flow will save you between 40% – 70%. [Translation: $100 to $220 per year]

State-of-the-Art Low Flow Showerheads Really Satisfy

Let’s be honest.  The original low flow showerheads really sucked.  There’s a Seinfeld episode where Kramer is forced to go to the black-market to find a shower head made for circus elephants, just to avoid the lame performance of the poorly designed low-flow installed by his landlord.

But, the latest generation of high-efficiency shower heads are engineered to feel the same or better than your old-school energy hog of a showerhead.  They are also stylish.  In fact, high-end hotels like Paris Las Vegas and Ceasar’s Palace are using Bricor shower heads which use as little as 1.25 gallons per minute.  If it’s good enough for the suite as Ceasar’s, it’s good enough for your shower at home.

Check out the list below of what some of the manufacturers are offering in high-performance low-flow showerheads.

The Math of Showerheads

Click here to calculate how much you can save

Non-conserving showerheads (pre-1992) use 5 to 8 gpm, consuming up to 64 gallons of water for a single 8-minute shower. That’s more than an entire tank of hot water.   If your showerhead is old enough to vote . . . it’s time to replace it.

Here’s the math:

Average U.S. household shower use (based on assumption of three 10-minute showers per day)

SAVINGS PER HOUSEHOLD USING A 1.5 Gallon Per Minute showerhead

Useless Facts About Showering Habits

Peeing in the shower once a day can save 1,000 gallons of water per year

63% of Americans shower at least once a day

11% shower more than once a day

1% less than once per week

Men tend to shower more often than women

Favorite way to save water: Showering together

Sixty percent of Americans share a shower area with a spouse or significant other

25 percent share space with children, and 17 percent allow guests to use their shower

GTV recommends these high efficiency showerheads which use 1.75 gallons or less:

Bricor – 1/2 gallon to 1.5 gallons per minute options  A Greenovation favorite (but tough to find retail)

Available at Natural Abode

Price: $109

Read More

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Photos Courtesy of Dave Askins

If you want to save some energy, one of the first appliances to target is your washing machine.  You could buy yourself a high efficiency front loading washer and really save some energy and water.  Or, if you’re as committed as Dave Askins, you could build your own washer out of some reused parts and power the washer with your own calories.

Dave's Amish Handcranked Washer

This is not some proof of concept or some demonstration project.  This is actually how Dave does his laundry.  On his website, HomelessDave.com Dave has tracked every bicycle powered load of laundry he’s done since July 2007 (149 and counting).

To be fair, Dave doesn’t use his bicycle to power his entire wash, spin and rinse cycles.  He gets a little help from the Amish.  For the wash cycle he uses an Amish-style “James Handwasher.”  It washes clothes, not hands.

The bicycle helps Dave spin the clothes dry without using a labor-intensive, and inferior, hand-cranked wringer.

Once he realized his system worked, Dave added an electric power generator so that he could watch TV or DVDs while he does his laundry. 

For answers to all your questions about building your own pedal-powered washer visit Dave’s website . Dave Askins is the publisher of the Ann Arbor Chronicle.

How Dave Did It . . .

From www.HomelessDave.com

Additional documentation is organized based on these three elements. [Click here for details on electric power generation.  This is how Dave can watch "J.J. The Jet Plane" while he does his laundry]

Modifying the Washer (unbolting stuff)

(1) Remove the white metal shell from the washing machine.

(2) Remove the electric motor from the washing machine frame.

(3) Remove the pulley from the motor shaft.

(4) Detach the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump.

(5) Remove ‘brakes’.

(6) Save the belt from the pulley.

Discussion:

Tension Roller

(1) Notes (Remove the white metal shell from the washing machine): Just unscrew every nut/screw you can find. Most of them are pretty accessible. Be prepared to cut some electrical wires. What you want is the part you see pictured above. Or something like it.

(2) Notes (Remove the electric motor from the washing machine frame): This will require navigating a wrench into very tight spaces. It pays to have a very small socket driver. When you’re tearing out the motor, preserve the tension roller arm [cf. picture]. This is important for keeping the drive belt on the pulley under high rpms.

(3) Notes (Remove the pulley from the motor shaft) The motor I dealt with was attached to the shaft with a tension pin. I knocked it out with a nail set. There may be two pulleys on the same motor shaft, one driving the washer and one driving the pump. The one you want is the one driving the washer.

(4) Notes (Detach the drain hose that leads from the tub to the pump) The automatic washer is set up to feed the draining water to a pump, which is then typically pumped up into one of those large laundry sinks. You’re not going to be pumping anything, so you want the water to run straight out of the tub into the bucket you will eventually set up, something like this:

Drain Detail

(5) Notes (Remove ‘brakes’): Mounted under the tub, there may be little wedges designed to ‘brake’ the tub in the event things get out of control. Get rid of these and anything else that obviously interferes with the free rotation of the tub. The washer I modified had little brake pads housed as indicated in the photo:

Brake Detail

Modifying the Trainer (drilling stuff)

(1) Get some tension pins.

(2) Get a drill bit to match.

(3) Drill three evenly spaced holes through the pulley.

(4) Position the drilled pulley onto the flywheel so that it’s perfectly centered.

(5) Drill through the flywheel.

(6) Hammer in the tension pins

Discussion:

(1-6) Notes: Take the pulley you’re going to drill to your local hardware store (in Ann Arbor, my choice is always Stadium Hardware) and say something like: “I’m going to drill through this three times and I need to put tension pins in there.” You will leave with a drill bit and three matching tension pins. Buy four pins if you plan to drop one where you can’t find it. There’s probably some quick and dirty way to lay out three evenly spaced holes on the pulley using some trick from middle-school geometry that I don’t know. I used Photoshop and printed it out. The pulley might have a flat side and a curved side. Because the flywheel to the bike trainer resistance unit is likely flat, use the rule: flat goes against flat. CRUCIAL: the holes can’t go through the ‘flangey’ part of the pulley … that’d put pins in the way of the belt. As you can see from the detail shot below, you might break off a drill bit, if you’re not careful (look at the right side). It’s important that these holes be ‘straight’, that is to say at a 90 degrees angle to the surface of the pulley. I used a drill guide attachment to my hand-drill for this. A drill press would be better. Probably the best strategy is to drill the holes through the pulley first, then go for the holes through the flywheel, using the pulley as a template.

Tension Pin Detail

How do you position the pulley on the flywheel so that it’s perfectly centered? Long story short, I eyeballed it. I helped myself out by spinning the flywheel and using a Sharpie permanent marker to scribe several concentric circles onto the flywheel for additional visual reference points. I also gently rotated the flywheel (after turning the flywheel on its side) with the pulley resting where I thought it looked centered, and evaluated if it seemed centered under slow rotation. I epoxied the pulley in place, so that I didn’t have to worry about slippage during drilling of the flywheel.

Preparing the Interface (positioning stuff)

(1) Position the bicycle training-stand and the washer in a configuration you estimate will work.

(2) Take a piece of string as an ersatz belt to get an estimate of how long your belt will need to be.

(3) Take the old belt and your measurement (or just the string) to your hardware store and ask for one just like it but longer.

Drill Plywood

(4) Place the two back feet on predrilled plywood pads.

(5) Drill spaces for the washer feet and place big plywood under the washer.

(6) Install the belt with the training stand resting on the big plywood.

(7) Test out the configuration a bit.

(8) Drill holes for the training stand feet.

Discussion (1-8):

The belt drive requires a fixed distance between the two pulleys. The idea here is to engineer a plywood base to keep the bicycle training stand and the washer at a fixed distance. The washer feet furthest away from the training stand need not be a part of the rigid mechanism, but they need to be padded so that the washer isn’t off balance. The rotation of an automatic washer’s spin cycle is, as best I can tell, directional. Figure out which direction it’s supposed to go. Put the twist in the belt (necessary to convert vertical spin into horizontal spin) accordingly.

The Dirty Laundry (the downside of this project)

I initially used this configuration for about 10 loads of laundry over the course of two weeks (that’s 30 spin cycles, as I spin the clothes out between each of two rinses in the hand-cranked washer). I was quite enthusiastic about the results and I still am. I imagine I’ll keep doing the majority of our household laundry with this method long into the future. Before embarking on a similar DIY project, I advise others to consider:

(1) It takes above-average strength and conditioning to pedal the original configuration of gears I set up. Over the course of about a minute, I was able to accelerate to 50 rpms, and then sustain it for 3-4 minutes. The bicycle gearing was roughly 2:1. The ratio of the circumference of the roller contacted by the bicycle tire to the tire itself is roughly 1:25. The ratio of the drive pulley’s circumference to the working pulley is around 1:4. So the rough aritmetic for the laundry tub is (50 x 2 x 25) / 4 = 625 rpms. I don’t know what the original rating for this particular model was (I don’t know what model is was, for one thing), but when I called GE’s customer service phone line, the representative looked up a few different motor ratings for me (and by the way, that customer service rep really impressed) and from that I concluded that the range of spin-cycle rpms is something like 450-650 rpms. So this configuration spins on the high side of average. Ideally, you’d want to be spinning the pedals closer to 90 rpms, so that it’s an aerobic effort, stressing the joints less, etc. With the gearing on the original configuration, spinning the tub at a normal spin cycle speed required slow grinding of the pedals. [Update: swapping the double-ring crankset with a triple ring sporting a very small inner ring, allowed a gear ratio of close to 1:1, resulting in a pedaling rpm of close to 90.]

(2) The rider of this configuration needs to try for a super-smooth pedal stroke. Violent accelerations within the pedal stroke lead to slippage between the bicycle tire and the resistance roller. Cycling shoes that clip to the pedals (you pull up as well as push down) help to smooth this out. Still, extra concentration is required.

(3) The resistance unit itself, even on its lowest setting (if it’s a magnetic unit) will sap energy from your pedaling that could go into spinning laundry. At least the resistance on a magnetic unit (which mine was) is typically adjustable. A fluid-resistance unit would typically offer no such adjustment. [Update: I completely removed the magnetic resistance unit and replaced it with an additional drive pulley to power an electric generator.]

(4) The resistance unit will pretty much be ruined for regular indoor bicycle training even if you leave it in place. This comes from the fact that the pulley mounted to the flywheel is likely going to be off-center enough that under the higher rpms typical of an indoor training session, it will cause the unit to emit an unholy noise. Mine did, anyway.

April-Fresh Goodness: (the upside of this project)

(1) Gray water recycle-ability: I empty that bucket from the spun laundry into a toilet tank.

(2) Zero electricity for entire laundry load if you dry on a rack.

(3) Drying puts moisture into the indoor air (good in winter).

(4) Exertion on the cycle is a good workout.

(5) Exertion on the cycle throws off heat into the indoor environment (good in winter, not great in summer.)

Bear in mind for future adaptation of indoor training resistance units:

(1) Precise centering of pulley.

(2) Elimination of resistance unit resistance.

(3) Use bicycle with a granny gear to increase pedaling rpms.

Ideas:

(1) Manufacturers of resistance trainers: build V-belt groove into flyweel.

(2) Mount pulley on the bicycle wheel on the opposite side of the gear cluster.

(3) Pedal-powered laundrette in student dormitories.

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So you’ve adjusted your thermostat, you put in the compact fluorescent bulbs . . . you even composted a plastic potato fiber fork from the local burrito joint.  But, how can you stay comfortable, reduce your energy use and lower your bills this winter . . . without breaking the bank?

3 Energy Savers for Under $100:

1.  Use your head:
High efficiency shower heads
$25 – $85 – Pays for itself in 3 – 7 months

No longer do you need to drain your hot water tank in order to get the shampoo out of your hair.  While delivering the same high-performance and comfort you expect, the new generation low flow shower heads use a full gallon per minute (gpm) less than a traditional shower head and up to 3.5 gallons per minute less than models from the 1980s.  That means that a family of three can save over 11,000 gallons of hot water per year just by installing a 1.5 gpm shower head.

If you decide to keep your old shower head, it will cost you an extra 300 kilowatt hours annually, enough electricity to power your television for about a year.  That’s enough to pay for your new shower head.

Hansgrohe EcoAir 1.5 gpm

American Standard FloWise 1.5 gpm

Kohler Forte’ 1.75 gpm

2.  Kill the vampire:
Smart power strips
$30 – $100 – Pays for itself in 7 – 14 months

When you’re not watching TV . . . it sucks.  No kidding.  Even in the “off” mode your television still draws electricity from the socket.  With new smart power strips, when you turn off your computer or television all of your peripherals shut down as well – killing that vampire power.  Just click your remote and viola’ . . . the smart power strip shuts down your Wii, your surround sound and all those other gadgets which are useless when your TV is off.

3.  Hire a light fairy
Vacancy sensor light switches
$20 – $40 each – Pays for itself in

“Who left the @$#&!! lights on again?!!  I’m not your light fairy!!”  Enough screaming at the kids to turn out the lights.  About 60% of lighting costs goes toward lighting empty rooms.  So, it’s time to get yourself some high quality vacancy sensors.

The sensors detect when a space becomes vacant and turn lighting off automatically after a preset time delay elapses. Users manually turn lights on or off at any time by operating the ON/OFF button.  California now requires smart lighting switches like these in all new homes.

———-

Like the “SAVE WATER . . . . Shower Together” t-shirt on the homepage?  You can buy it at Zazzle.com

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Click here to listen to our Greenovation segment on The Environment Report on your local NPR station

Two rules of thumb for deciding whether to replace your toilet:

Old school 8 gallon per flush toilet

1)  if your toilet is old enough to vote, or

2)  if the tank is avocado or gold . . .

it’s time to get a new generation high-efficiency toilet.

Sit on this for a while . . . your family of three will flush the toilet over a 1/2 million times in your lifetime.  Now consider that the oldest toilets use about 8 gallons per flush and toilets installed before 1992 use at least 3.5 gallons per flush (gpf).  And by the way, that’s fresh drinking water you’re peeing in.

So with all that money going down the toilet, it’s time to upgrade to a new generation high-efficiency toilet.

WHAT IS A HIGH EFFICIENCY TOILET?

A High-Efficiency Toilet or (HET) is a toilet that uses 1.3 gpf or less.  The State of California now requires that all new toilets meet this standard. Dual flush toilets take it to the next level by offering a lower flush option of only .8 gpf.

DO THEY COST MORE?

Dual-flush HETs do not cost more.  Although they have a slightly higher up front cost (between $250 – $500), the water savings make them far less expensive over time. According to PottyGirl, if a family of four replaces one 3.5 gpf toilet made between 1980 and 1994 with a WaterSense toilet, they can save $2,000 over the lifetime of the toilet.

Dual-flush toilets give an option of .8 gallon flush.

Check out GreenandSave.com to find out your return on investment for a dual-flush HET.

DO THEY WORK? . . . A GUIDE TO LIVING A PLUNGER FREE LIFE

Yes.  They work.  They flush better and waste less.

Plumbing guru Terry Love says “with the changes in the water usage laws of 1992, many encountered plumbing problems. The first round of low-flow toilets were not quite ready for prime-time. Customer complaints were many and plumbers were in the bad position of installing products that nobody wanted to use. Recently, . . . things have changed.  Some of the new plumbing products work better than the old water wasters.”

The latest model dual-flush toilets have the option of using 1.28 gallons per flush (gpf) or a meager .8 gpf (around 12 cups).

In our Greenovation segment for the Environment Report on public radio stations we tried the Caroma Sydney which has a unique 4-inch trapway.  The .8 gallon button flushed virtually everything including 4 tennis balls, 4 potatoes, and even an entire t-shirt. No plunger required.

[MORON ALERT:  Don't try this at home!  If you get a tennis ball and your old Michael Jackson "Thriller Tour" t-shirt stuck in your sewer drain . . . don't come crying to me].

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

Look for the Water Sense label.  This will ensure not only efficiency but also high performance

The 4" trapway on this Caroma dual flush eliminates clogs

HOW MUCH WILL YOU SAVE WITH A DUAL-FLUSH?

Try out this free cost savings spreadsheet:  Click here

FACTS:

On average, 30% – 40% of a family’s water bill goes down the toilet

By 2013, 36 U.S. states are predicted to experience catastrophic water shortages

Advances in toilet design permit WaterSense HETs to save water without loss of flushing power.

LEARN MORE (or “Everything you ever wanted to know about ridding your life of poop but were afraid to ask“)

WaterSense Label:  How to find money savings faucets and toilets

Video: Flushing Away Cash

Dual flush toilets retain high style while improving performance and efficiency

Today’s Best Toilets, Terry Love

Terry Love’s low-flow toilet report

Fine Homebuilding Choosing a Toilet

Kohler’s SaveWaterAmerica.com

WHERE TO BUY A DUAL FLUSH TOILET

EcoBuildingProducts Caroma

Wal-Mart American Standard

BGreen (Michigan & Northern Ohio only) Toto, Kohler, and Caroma

Home Depot Kohler, American Standard, and Foremost

BuyPluming.net Caroma and Toto

National Builder Supply Toto

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by Jennifer Eschelbach, EnHouse – GreenovationTV Contributing Writer

Cheap is not always . . . cheap.  And when it comes to appliances “saving” a few bucks on an energy hog can really cost you.

According to the U.S. Department of Energy, home appliances account for 17% of a typical household’s energy consumption. Replacing appliances can be a daunting task, especially considering the cost associated with replacement.

There are two costs to consider when purchasing appliances: the purchase price and the operating cost. The purchase price is how much you pay to take the appliance home, and can be thought of as a kind of down payment. The operating cost is the monthly dues to your utilities company that allow for continued use of your appliance.

Once you have decided to purchase a new appliance take time to consider both the purchase price and operating cost. Look for appliances with the Energy Star label. Energy Star products meet strict energy efficiency standards set by the Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy.

Additionally, the Federal government requires that most appliances display the bright yellow and black EnergyGuide label.

The EnergyGuide label will not tell you which appliance is the most efficient. However, it will provide information on the annual energy consumption and the operating costs, allowing you to compare for yourself.

Remember, buying a cheaper model may seem like it will save you on the front end in your purchase cost but will cost you in the long run on your operating cost. Follow these tips to ensure the wisest investment of your money:

1. Look for the Energy Star logo and read the EnergyGuide label and compare that appliance to the energy use of other models you are considering.

2. Estimate the difference in energy costs.

3. Consider both the purchase price and estimated energy usage when deciding which brand and model to buy.

4. Ask questions of your sales person and local utilities companies as there may be cash rebates, low-interest loans or other incentive programs in your area for energy-efficient product purchases. Find out if you can qualify.

By making informed and well thought-out appliance purchases you can reduce the amount of energy your appliances consume and save yourself money in the long run.

Jennifer Eschelbach is a GreenovationTV Contributing Writer and in charge of outreach for the The Environmental House Energy & Green Building Resource Center (EnHouse) in Ann Arbor, Michigan.  The EnHouse is a comprehensive resource and touring facility dedicated to furthering the causes of green building, energy efficiency and renewable energy. Jennifer is currently working on her second bachelors degree from Eastern Michigan University in Urban and Regional Planning.  She loves the smell of energy efficiency in the morning.

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Even as the ice cream melts on your countertop and the fire hydrants are whistling for the dogs, there is a way to keep your house cool without using your air conditioner.  Stick a big ass fan in your attic.  A whole-house fan can save you some serious money and still keep you comfortable.

So you’re turning in for the night and the thermostat reads 80 degrees.  But the outside temperature has dropped to 68.  You’re just throwing money away if you turn on the a/c just to cool your house to 72.

Why use a whole house fan?

A whole house fan is a simple and inexpensive method of cooling your house. The fan draws cool outdoor air inside through open windows and exhausts hot indoor air through the attic to the outside.  Running a whole house fan whenever outdoor temperatures are lower than indoor temperatures will cool your house.

In summer, the air inside a home is heated during the hot part of the day. During the morning, late evening, and night, the outside air is often cooler and can be used to replace the inside air.  As daytime temperatures rise, the whole house fan can be turned off.

What are the benefits?

A whole house fan can be used as the sole means of cooling or to reduce the need for air conditioning. If both methods of cooling are present, seasonal use of the whole house fan (during spring and fall) may yield the optimum combination of comfort and cost.

Costs less to buy

• Purchase cost for a whole house fan = $150 – $650
• Purchase cost for a window unit a/c = $250 – $800
• Purchase cost of central a/c = $2,500 – $7,000

Costs less to operate

You lose money every time you turn on the a/c when you can bring in cooler outside temperatures for practically free.

• Central a/c = $0.15 – $0.43 per hour
• Window a/c = $0.18 – $0.52 per hour
• Whole house fan = a penny to a nickel per hour

Drawbacks

A whole house fan does a great job of bringing in cool outside air.  But, it can also bring in humidity, dust and pollen (and of course the smell of your friendly neighborhood skunk – but that’s how you know your fan is working) .  If you suffer from allergies, you can install allergy screens in your windows and still benefit from a whole house fan.

Selecting a whole house fan

• FAN SPEED. A two-speed fan permits the entire house to be ventilated quickly on high speed (such as when the occupants first arrive at home) and then provides gentle air circulation at the lower, quieter speed. A variable speed unit offers more flexibility in selecting the desired air movement.

• CONTROL OPTIONS. Control may be a simple on/off pull or wall switch, a multi-speed rotary wall switch, or a timer that automatically shuts off the fan at pre-selected time intervals.

• LOUVERS. Dampers or louvers typically operate automatically whenever the fan is on. Motorized dampers are available but are not necessary if the louvers are correctly installed and maintained.

• MOTOR MOUNTS AND NOISE. A direct drive unit has its fan blades attached directly to the motor shaft. This type of unit is usually less expensive to buy and operates at a higher speed than its belt-driven counterpart. A belt-driven unit typically features a motor driving a slowermoving, larger-diameter fan with four or more blades. It may be quieter, but will require maintenance of the pulley and belt.

Sizing a whole house fan

Determining the amount of airflow in cubic feet per minute (cfm) that the whole house fan should provide involves a simple calculation. Multiply the total gross square footage of the house (include upstairs area) by the ceiling height (typically 8 feet). Select a fan that delivers between one-half to one time that amount of cfm at 0.1″ static pressure. For example, a 25′ x 40′ one-story home is 1,000 square feet and would need an 8 x 1,000 x 1/2 = 4,000 cfm fan or better. A two-speed unit that delivers 4,500 cfm at the high setting (240 watts) and 3,200 cfm at low (120 watts) should be adequate.

Whole House Fan Installation – Do It Yourself

USE “H” BRACKETS TO PROVIDE PROPER SUPPORT. When installing a whole house fan, be sure to provide proper support and seal the unit into the rough opening in the ceiling. Never cut a truss chord; wooden “H” brackets installed between the trusses create a framed box to raise the fan above the truss system. The louvers must be able to open and close freely and care must be taken to prevent binding or misalignment. A fan with a 34″ base (30″ blade) will work with the dimensions shown in the diagram at left.

BUILD AN ATTIC-SIDE BOX COVER. A typical whole house fan has a 30″ diameter blade with a sheet metal cowling of 31″ to allow for blade clearance. An attic-side box cover may be constructed from a 4′ x 4′ piece of 1″ rigid fiberglass duct board. The box will be 33″ square with 1″ thick walls (inside dimension of 31″ x 31″). It will be 61/2″ deep. Adjust dimensions to actual fan size.

Note:  For a bit more money, you can find models with motorized automatic insulated doors to provide an air tight seal between the attic and living area when the unit is not in operation.

TIPS AND CONCERNS

Seal penetrations and vent attic.  Caulk all penetrations between the attic and living space, such as electrical boxes for ceiling light fixtures, loose attic hatches, large cutouts for plumbing vents, exposed beams, and recessed lights. A whole house fan creates a positive pressure in the attic; it is important that air from the attic is not forced back into the living space through cracks and gaps.

A guideline for sufficient attic vent area is one square foot of net-free vent area per 750 cfm of fan airflow. Continuous ridge and soffit vents are usually more than adequate. Vents with insect screens may have a net-free area equivalent to one-half of the total open area, depending upon the size of the holes in the screen area. Insulation should be installed directly against the fan box frame. Blown-in insulation may require the sides of the fan box to be raised (with baffles) to prevent interference.

AVOID BACKDRAFTS. Care should be taken to avoid backdrafting combustion appliances that are installed in the conditioned space. It is strongly recommended that combustion appliances NOT be installed in such a manner that they use room air for combustion. A whole house fan is capable of pulling large quantities of air from the home and, particularly if not enough windows are open, may easily backdraft a water heater located inside a louvered closet door.

Whole House Fan (PDF: 236k)

Click here to find where to buy a whole house fan

Article adapted from the Oak Ridge National Laboratory, U.S. Department of Energy, Building Technologies Program. and Southface Energy Institute

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From McKinsey.com

In this report, McKinsey & Company offers a detailed analysis of the magnitude of the efficiency potential in non-transportation uses of energy, a thorough assessment of the barriers that impede the capture of greater efficiency, and an outline of the practical solutions available to unlock the potential.

The research shows that the U.S. economy has the potential to reduce annual non-transportation energy consumption by roughly 23 percent by 2020, eliminating more than $1.2 trillion in waste – well beyond the $520 billion upfront investment (not including program costs) that would be required. The reduction in energy use would also result in the abatement of 1.1 gigatons of greenhouse gas emissions annually – the equivalent of taking the entire U.S. fleet of passenger vehicles and light trucks off the roads.

Such energy savings will be possible, however, only if the United States can overcome significant sets of barriers. These barriers are widespread and persistent, and will require an integrated set of solutions to overcome them – including information and education, incentives and financing, codes and standards, and deployment resources well beyond current levels.

In addition to the above central conclusion, five observations will be relevant to a national debate about how best to pursue energy efficiency opportunities of the magnitude identified and within the timeframe considered in this report. Specifically, an overarching strategy would need to:

	Recognize energy efficiency as an important energy resource that can help meet future energy needs while the nation concurrently develops new no- and low-carbon energy sources
	Formulate and launch at both national and regional levels an integrated portfolio of proven, piloted, and emerging approaches to unlock the full potential of energy efficiency
	Identify methods to provide the significant upfront funding required by any plan to capture energy efficiency
	Forge greater alignment between utilities, regulators, government agencies, manufacturers, and energy consumers
	Foster innovation in the development and deployment of next-generation energy efficiency technologies to ensure ongoing productivity gains.

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When Architect Carol Shen decided to renovate the kitchen in a house built in 1929, she had one goal: make it look gorgeous while creating a showcase of efficiency.  In this video, she shares the sustainable technologies, strategies and materials she used in the project.

One goal was to reuse as much as possible and minimize what went into the landfill.  When choosing new wood materials, she made sure they were from certified sustainable forests and had the Forest Stewdarship Council (FSC) seal of approval.

One of the coolest features is the new induction cooktop.  Okay you primal I-need-open-fire-to-cook-with geeks, I hear you whining.  But this electric induction cooking is winning over even the most primitive naked-ape chefs.  Unlike gas or conventional electric stoves, induction cooktops send almost all of their energy into the pot.  This reduces waste heat, lowers energy cost and keeps the surrounding cooking area cool.  You can actually place your hand on the stove top next to the pot without getting burned.

The super-efficient LED lights have the same high-style appeal of the old incandescent.  But, they reduced the energy consumption from 390 watts to a meager 72 watts (a savings of over 80%!!).  In the life-cycle competition the LEDs win hands down.  The LEDs have a lifespan of 50,000 hours compared to only 1,000 hours for the incandescents.  Boo-ya-daddy.

By installing an Energy Star front loading washing machine, Carol reduced her water consumption by almost 1,000 gallons.  The front loader has the added benefit of better washing performance while being gentler on your clothes.

What you need to know:

- FSC Certified Wood

- Energy Star Appliances

- 90% energy efficient induction cooktop

- Highly energy efficient CREE LED lighting

- Low or zero-VOC paints and finishes

- Marmoleum flooring

- Maximum use of local suppliers for sustainable materials

- Cabinets made locally from FSC certified wood.  Formaldehyde-free with soy-based glues.

- Deconstruction, donation or reuse of existing cabinets, fixtures and appliances

- Improved indoor air quality and passive cooling with use of vents and windows

From re:Source

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During the Greenovation Evaluation of Dr. Anna Marie’s home, the Greenalysis Team finds virtually zero insulation, an ultra-wasteful toilet, an inefficient oil furnace, a 36 year old water tank, and more wallet busters than you can shake a Benjamin at.

About 58 million homes in the U.S. have no insulation at all.  Yet, it’s one of the easiest ways that you can save energy and lower your monthly bills. The team recommends a new castor oil based spray foam insulation in all of the walls and the attic.

Unbelievably, the original gas water heater from 1973 is still working. Lowering your water heater to 120 degrees can lower your energy use by 5 – 10%. Insulating your tank with an inexpensive tank wrap can help keep the water hot when not in use. Dr. Anna Marie has decided to install a new Rheem solar hot water heater to reduce her carbon footprint even further and ensure a comfortable flow of hot water.

Dr. Anna Marie bought the home with its original oil furnace. After recycling the old tank, she’ll be installing a state-of-the-art geothermal heat pump to heat and cool the home year round for a fraction of the energy of a traditional furnance and a/c. It’s a great choice made even more affordable by the new 30% tax credit from the federal government. The EPA calls geothermal the most efficient home comfort system available.

Anna Marie’s old-old school toilet uses about 5 gallons per flush!! She’s wasting over 8,000 gallons of water per year. She’ll be installng a new high-efficiency toilet with a dual flush sytem – half flush and full flush. The half flush will use only .8 gallons and will be almost impossible to clog. The complete list of recommended improvements for Dr. Anna Marie’s home can be found on her website www.TerraVerdeTV.com and more information can be found on how you can improve your home at www.Greenovation.TV

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